More Brew-haha at the 'buck

While we’re on the subject of coffee…

I gotta hand it to Starbucks CEO Howard Schultz. When that guy says he’s going to make waves, he’s talking tsunamis.

In addition to shutting down the entire world-wide operation one afternoon for a barista “remedial,” taking smelly breakfast sandwiches off the menu, creating a new “retro” blend, and giving away millions of “talls” between now and May 28th, Schultz recently announced the purchase of the Coffee Equipment Company of Seattle. Connoisseurs know that as the maker of the Clover coffee brewer, an $11,000 contraption that’s considered essential equipment at top cafes.          

Rather than brewing coffee by the pot, the Clover brews one cup at a time using beans that are poured into a small metal cup and weighed on a scale, then ground. Next, hot water (about 202 degrees, I was told) shoots out of a spigot into a well in the top of the machine. The barista dumps the ground coffee into the water and stirs it gently with a paddle. After about a minute the grounds rise dramatically above the top of the well, forming a half-inch “cake” which is scraped into a trash receptacle. The brewed coffee comes out of another spigot near the bottom of the machine. (Photo from New York Times.)

The process is similar to that of French Press coffee, but the French Press operation can take close to 10 minutes. The Clover is ready in about two minutes. Starbucks calls it “fresh pressed” coffee.

The company is testing the Clover at six outlets, three in Seattle and three in the Boston area. Last week I got to watch the show and taste the results at a Starbucks in Harvard Square, Cambridge.

The employees treated the Clover like a shrine, jockeying graciously for the chance to operate it. They were knowledgeable about the process and the beans being used. (Six types of beans are suggested but customers can ask for any type of bean they want.)

The brewing was fun to watch, the aromas were terrific and the end product was impressive.

I found the aged Sumatra wonderfully fragrant with a multi-layered flavor that included some fruit and floral notes. But what I liked best was the freshness of the flavor, the brightness, the clarity. I swear it even looked clearer, shinier and more appealing. I also tried the Guatemalan Antigua which was significantly milder, less interesting, but very elegant. Both coffees showed their stuff a lot more when they had cooled off for about 15 minutes.

There was only occasional traffic at the Clover machine in the store I visited. At that rate, the baristas could fuss over their gig as much as they wanted. But I wouldn’t want to be tenth in the Clover line waiting for my morning cup.

During the “test drive,” Starbucks is selling the Clover coffees for $2.25 a tall and  $2.50 a grande. If the machine goes store-wide, I’m guessing there’ll be a bigger gap between the fresh pressed and the regular Pike Place Roast.

Comments

[Joe Kennedy]

How did the Clover coffee compare with and without milk/cream/foam? And how did they compare with the espresso latte? Will they do espresso roast with the Clover machine or are we talking a completely different reality?

[Maureen Clancy]

I didn't try it with milk or cream but I know it would be delicious with cream (the bright coffee flavor would still shine thru); probably less exciting as a cafe au lait.
I didn't ask them for espresso roast but the baristas said you could order any bean. I think it would be delicious. BTW I'll be talking about all things coffee on SignOnRadio.com today -- the Gourmet Club program -- from 1 to 2 pm.

[Maureen Clancy]

I didn't try it with milk or cream but I know it would be delicious with cream (the bright coffee flavor would still shine thru); probably less exciting as a cafe au lait.
I didn't ask them for espresso roast but the baristas said you could order any bean. I think it would be delicious. BTW I'll be talking about all things coffee on SignOnRadio.com today -- the Gourmet Club program -- from 1 to 2 pm.