New Fish to Fry

Writers toss around a lot of words when they describe a new cookbook: Trendy, down-to-earth, user-friendly, high-brow, authoritative, photographically-driven. But to me “inspirational” is the key word, the quality that gets a cookbook a spot on the shelves in my kitchen.

Rick Moonen inspires.

In “Fish Without a Doubt,” this accomplished chef/owner of RM Seafood in Mandalay Bay Resort Las Vegas, takes an ingredient that most home cooks avoid like the plague and turns it into a do-able, delicious meal.

Moonen is an easy-going, approachable guy who values honest flavors over flash and fanfare. That comes through loud and clear in “Fish Without a Doubt,” which features simple but spectacularly flavorful creations that will win over all the home cooks who insist that “cooking fish makes the house smell bad.”

I loved his Jerk Tuna with Mango Sauce, an intriguing interplay of sweet and spicy flavors that took all of 15 minutes to make. I was impressed by the fragrance and flavor of Swordfish Brochettes with Orange-Chipotle Marinade which I also made in less time than it takes to place and pick up a take-out order. And I flipped over Moonen’s take on salmon burgers – he lightens the chopped salmon-bell-pepper-scallion patties with beaten egg white and tops the finished product with a spunky Green Tartar Sauce. (The tuna burgers swaddled in fiery harissa mayonnaise are terrific, too.)

In the almost-500-page book, you’ll find homey and haute; all-American and international exotica; super-simple preparations and sophisticated adventures that Moonen guides you with with the equivalent of a gentle hand on the back.

Clear, concise instructions include suggestions of appropriate side dishes for each entrée. Valuable “tips” accompany many recipes. And glossy color photos help answer the question “What shall we have for dinner tonight?”

In addition to its creativity quotient –- hushpuppies with a bay scallop inside each golden nugget, anyone? -- “Fish Without a Doubt” is a valuable reference tool.  Recipes are divided into chapters based on techniques (poaching, steaming, broiling, grilling, etc.) and include both basic instructions and imaginative ideas for refining a dish. There are also chapters on “Essential Sides,” such as Asian slaw and lentil salad; sauces, salsas and vinaigrettes; and a dictionary of the fish you’re likely to encounter in the marketplace. Moonen also deals with the issue of sustainable seafood.

Oh, yeah. That pesky excuse you’ve had for not cooking fish at home. Moonen says forgetaboutit…the kitchen doesn’t have to smell fishy. Just follow his advice which includes:
•    Buy only very fresh fish
•    Empty the garbage right away
•    Place a cup of bleach near your work area; it pulls odors from the air
•    Put lemon and lime rinds through the sink disposal; it freshens the sink and releases the fragrant essential oils of the rinds

JERK TUNA WITH MANGO SAUCE
Serves 4

1 ripe mango, peeled, pitted and chopped
1 (1-inch) knob fresh ginger, peeled and grated
1/3 cup orange juice
Grated zest of 1/2 lemon
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, plus more if needed
4 (6-ounce) pieces tuna (or swordfish), about 1/2-inch thick
Coarse salt
4 teaspoons vegetable oil
4 teaspoons jerk seasoning (available is most specialty markets)

Combine all sauce ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth. Give the sauce a taste. It should be tangy, so add more lemon juice if you need it. This makes about 1 1/2 cups.

Season the tuna with salt and rub each piece with 1 teaspoon of the oil. Rub 1/2 teaspoon of the jerk seasoning into each side of each piece.

Heat a Foreman grill and grill the tuna for 2 minutes for medium-rare. Or heat a grill pan over medium-high heat and grill the tuna for 1 1/2 minutes on each side.

To serve, spoon the mango sauce onto dinner plates. Slice the tuna and fan the slices over the sauce.

Fish retails for $35; it's $23.10 at Amazon.com.

Comments

[wendy neal]

Hey Maureen:

I wasa searching for Moonen's book and was linked to your blog!! Did you know Rick Mooned got his start as a chef in Ludlow. He worked in the Winchester Inn which is now Okemo Mountain School and married a local girl......small world!!

Would love to see you guys!!