Starry-Eyed over Risotto

Legend has it (erroneously or otherwise) that when 17th century Benedictine monk Dom Pierre Pérignon took his first sip of Champagne he exclaimed “I am drinking the stars.”

I was equally blown away by my first taste of Risotto con Montenisa Brut e Parmigiano at Procacci restaurant in Vienna. The risotto fairly sparkled in my mouth…perfectly cooked grains of rice creamily bound together with a sheer, impossibly light broth redolent of Champagne and nutty Parmesan cheese. The first bite left me speechless….no mean feat.

So what the heck is Montenisa Brut?

After a bit of research I now know that it is a sparkling wine from the Franciacorta area of Lombardy. A blend of  Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero grapes, the bubbly is created and nurtured by members of the prestigious Antinori family.  It is fairly widely available in the U.S and can be purchased on-line at such sites as Wine Chateau or Witty's Wine for about $30 a bottle.

So much for the idea of splashing a few ounces of Whatever-White-is-Open-in-the-Fridge into that pot of risotto, eh?

I asked Procacci chef Lorenzo DiMartino how he turns a pot of rice into this stunning creation.  The process starts like that of any other risotto. A bit of butter and oil in a pot, some minced onion or shallot sautéed 'til almost translucent, grains of Carnaroli rice rolled around until well coated with the butter and oil.  Normally, the next step is the time-consuming and patience-trying addition of small amounts of  simmering broth (usually beef or chicken) until the rice is tender but firm to the bite (al dente).

But there’s nothing normal about DiMartino’s Risotto con Montenisa Brut.

After the rice has been sautéed for a few minutes, DiMartino adds “a glass” of  the sparkling wine, probably about 6 ounces for enough risotto to serve four people.  He allows it to almost evaporate, then starts with the small additions of simmering vegetable broth. “I want the maximum taste of wine and rice and truffle, without any taste of meat,” he insists. (More about that truffle later.)

As he slowly adds more and more broth in ½ cup increments, DiMartino also slips in a little more Montenisa.  “In total, it’s probably about 70 percent broth and 30 percent wine.”

Just before the rice is ready, he splashes in a bit more Montenisa – “to give it the proper acidity” – then adds the Parmigiano. Scooped into a wide, shallow bowl, the risotto is finally topped with a tiny pouf of truffle butter which envelops the dish in a come-hither aroma that perfumes the whole room as the server makes his way to the table. (DiMartino didn't say how he makes that but I'm guessing it's softened unsalted butter whipped together with minced fresh white truffles.)

There's no boozy flavor in the dish. Just a creamy richness punctuated with a subtle tang.

I plan to try making some vague approximation of DiMartino’s triumph at home. When I do, I’ll share the recipe here.

Comments

[John Koon]

Need some advice.

Anyone knows how to get in touch with Maureen?

I like to invite her to a hole-in- the-wall Chinese BBQ place called Siu Siu BBQ on Clairemont Mesa Blvd. Fantastic food. Hope she can write about it.

Thanks a million.

John
musicabc@gmail.com