There’s just one thing better than stumbling upon an
out-of-this-world dish while vacationing in some far-flung city or village.
And that’s getting the recipe for the dish so you can
re-create it at home whenever you want.
Over the weekend, I translated one of those recipes from German into English and tested it in my kitchen using ounces and tablespoons instead of grams and Esslöffel. The charming servers, candlelit sidewalk tables and mid-summer-night neighborhood scene at Restaurant Skopik & Lohn in Vienna, Austria were missing.
But the Ziegenkäsemousse mit Rot Paprika Chutney (translation: Goat Cheese Mousse with Red Bell Pepper Chutney) tasted every bit as good. (This photo was taken in June when the chutney featured yellow cherry tomatoes and pears.) I'm convinced that the whipped cream in the recipe is the key ingredient. Nobody does whipped cream like the Viennese do whipped cream.
Next week I’ll be teaching a cooking class at Great News! Discount Cookware and Cooking School in
Pacific Beach (858-270-1582). The theme of the class: The best restaurant
recipes I’ve discovered in my 30 years as a food critic. Skopik & Lohn's sensational goat cheese mousse will be among them. Class members get to enjoy all the finished dishes with a glass of wine.
This is a perfect hors d’oeuvre or appetizer for Thanksgiving
Day….just a little nosh that perks up the palate but leaves plenty of room for
the main attraction.
Goat Cheese Mousse with Gingered Red Bell Pepper Chutney
SKOPIK & LOHN, Vienna, Austria
Makes about 4 cups
6 ounces goats milk yogurt
4 ounces quark (Vermont Butter & Cheese Quark is
available at Whole Foods)
2 ounces soft fresh goat cheese
6 ounces heavy cream, whipped
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons snipped chives
1 envelope gelatin
½ cup water
Sprinkle the gelatin over ½ cup water in a microwavable
cup; let sit for 5 minutes. Then place cup in microwave for 10 seconds to warm
slightly. Stir to be sure there are no crystals remaining.
In a large bowl, blend the quark, yogurt and mashed goat
cheese with an electric mixer at low speed or with a whisk. Add the chives and
salt and pepper to taste. In a separate bowl, whip the heavy cream. Gently fold
the whipped cream into the cheese mixture. Refrigerate for 3 hours. Serve two
small, egg-shaped portions on each appetizer plate, along with a spoonful of
chutney (follows) and thin toasts or crisped pita bread. The mousse can also be
mounded into one serving bowl and served with crackers and crudités.
Gingered Red Bell Pepper Chutney
Makes about 1 cup
3 red bell peppers, divided use
2-3 tablespoons grated fresh ginger, divided use
2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
4 ounces water
1 clove garlic, minced
Pinch salt
Leaves from 2 stems fresh thyme
1 tablespoon sugar
Wash, dry, seed and chop the 3 bell peppers into
approximate ¼-inch cubes. Place the cubes from 2 of the peppers in a small,
heavy saucepan along with 1-2 tablespoons of the grated ginger, balsamic
vinegar, water, minced garlic, salt, thyme leaves and sugar. Bring to a boil,
then lower heat and cook slowly until the peppers are very soft and almost all
the liquid is evaporated, about 25 minutes.
Add the remaining cubed bell pepper and cook 5 minutes
longer. Season to taste with salt and add the remaining grated ginger to taste.
Serve at room temperature or refrigerate until ready to serve.
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