Matters of Taste

Perfecting Polenta

In this week’s New York Times column, “The  Minimalist,” Mark Bittman writes about “Taking the Fear Out of Polenta.” For such a simple creation – it’s just cornmeal and water, forpetessake – polenta has a bad reputation among home cooks.

“Polenta, as we know, suffers from the misguided belief that it’s a hassle to make. Experts say you have to “rain in the grain” — adding the cornmeal to a large pot of water while constantly stirring to avoid lumps. And purists can be fussy about what type of cornmeal to use. These notions serve to intimidate the novice or average cook,” Bittman writes.

His recipe calls for us to make a “slurry” of cornmeal and cold water in a pan, then bring it to a boil over not-too-high heat and simmer until ready. Sound advice.

But, I still prefer chef Gordon Hamersley’s version, which I discovered (and blogged about) last year and found so easy and dependable that I now make it frequently, topped with some type of stew or braised meat. It’s ideal fare during these cold, wet months.

Hamersley, who’s won just about every food award there is during the 22 years that Hamersley’s Bistro has been open in Boston’s South End, also suggests a slurry of cornmeal and water. However, he lets the mixture steep a few minutes then adds it to a pot of boiling water. I find the resulting cooked polenta to be significantly creamier than polenta cooked the traditional way (“rain in the grain”) or Bittman’s way (adding polenta to cold water).

Here’s Hamersley’s recipe, taken from his book “Bistro Cooking at Home” which is available at Amazon.com. You can top it with the lip-smacking Chicken Piperade that I blogged about last time. Or, for a hearty, handsome and total no-brainer dinner, top the polenta with Cuisine Solutions’ frozen New Zealand Lamb Shanks. Packaged individually, the fully cooked shanks are tender and delicious in a savory veal stock sauce with mint and rosemary. A box of  four huge shanks (52 ounces) costs less than $20 at Costco. The luscious-looking polenta in this photo is from a charming and useful blog called "MyHusbandHatesVeggies."

 

BASIC POLENTA

2 quarts water

1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt, or more to taste

2 cups medium-ground cornmeal, or a combination of fine and medium

Bring 1 quart of water and the salt to a boil in a large saucepan.

In a bowl, combine the cornmeal and the remaining quart of water and stir to combine. Let the cornmeal absorb some of the water for about 2 minutes.

Gradually whisk the polenta and water from the bowl into the boiling water. Continue to whisk until the polenta begins to thicken, about 5 minutes.

Lower the heat to low and cook the polenta, stirring well every few minutes, until the polenta begins to pull away from the sides of the pan and has a soft, creamy texture, about 45 minutes. (If the polenta sputters and makes a mess, partially cover the pan.)

If you are making basic polenta to serve as is, add 5 tablespoons softened unsalted butter and ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese and stir well to combine. As the polenta sits, it will begin to thicken. If it becomes thicker than you like, add a litte more water or some milk and stir to combine.

 

 

 

 

Tops in Travel; My Favorite Trips of 2009

Before we get any farther into 2010, I want to add one last “Best of 2009” list to those I posted last week.

In a year of exciting travel destinations, inviting hotels, great food, and high-drama adventures, these three experiences stood out. Maybe one will be the inspiration for your “best-ever” vacation in 2010.

 HUT-TO-HUT HIKING IN THE DOLOMITES

Don’t be fooled by the term “hut.” The small mountain inns that greet hikers at the end of a day’s hike in the Dolomite mountains of northern Italy are captivating places, with drop-dead-gorgeous views, delicious local cuisine, hot showers, poufy down comforters on the beds, and a pervasive aura of accomplishment and camaraderie in the bar.

With two friends, my husband and I hiked the Grödnertal (also called Gardena Valley) and the Tiersertal (Tiers Valley), meandering through vast alpine meadows that begged us to sing a few bars of “The Hills are Alive,” and inching, with held breath, along narrow paths that seemed to float thousands of feet above the valley floor.

Some routes pampered us with a gondola (there’s skiing here in the winter) to the top of a peak. In St. Ulrich, a battered single chair lift, built some 40 years ago, whisked us to Raschötz Hütte, one of our favorite overnight spots. (Most huts are reachable only by foot or by some type of chairlift.)

During the days we took in the breathtaking scenery of towering granite peaks and the gentler SeiserAlm, a vast plateau dotted with spring flowers. By night, we played cards in cozy, wood-panelled bars called stübe and ate hearty pork and elegant pasta dishes made by the inn’s owner. Each morning we were awakened by the clanging of the bells hanging around the necks of local cows.

After four nights of hütte (a bargain at about $100 per couple per night for room, breakfast and dinner), we landed at Cyprianerhof, a family-run inn that was recently enlarged to include stylish suites and a state-of-the-art spa. We had carried (small) backpacks with all our belongings for several days; now we rejoiced in the luxury of Cyprianerhof (where the car we rented in Vienna waited for us, complete with a change of clothes, computers, etc.)

Many international companies, such as Backroads, offer guided tours of the area. However, it's easy to book huts on-line, and most paths are well-enough marked to find your way without a guide. One caveat: If the hiking map shows red dots or red crosses instead of a dotted red line, serious climbing is involved and a guide is a good idea. 

MEADOWOOD NAPA VALLEY

I’m always amazed when people who brag about the number of wineries they visited on a trip to California’s wine country,  kinda like gunfighters notching their belts. The way I see it, I can taste all the wines I want at home. I cannot bike Dry Creek Valley, take a mineral bath in funky Calistoga, stroll Bothe State Park, browse St. Helena’s cool boutiques, or commune with the spirit of Jack London at his original homestead. 

In October, I attended the Culinary Institute of America’s (CIA) annual Worlds of Flavor conference, a mind-boggling array of seminars, tastings, demonstrations and lectures that’s open to professional cooks, restaurateurs, manufacturers and journalists.

When I wasn’t in a scheduled class, my husband and I experienced the wine country the way I think it should be experienced…up close and personal.

Home base was Meadowood Napa Valley, an idyllic resort set into a leafy hollow just off the Silverado Trail. A member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux hotel collection, Meadowood manages to combine the ultimate in luxury and pampering with a low-key sensibility and inviting earthiness.

Romantic rooms and suites, with sitting areas and fireplaces, are located in cottages scattered throughout the property. The award-winning Restaurant – recipient of two Michelin stars – is located in a stunning lodge that melts into the forest behind it.  There’s golf, croquet, tennis and more, but my favorite way to burn off the calories from the superlative eateries in the area is one the resort’s five-mile walking path that swoops through the woods rimming the resort. The rolling trail, perfumed by pine and flowers, is dense and silent,  yet a walker can bail out at any time and be back in a cluster of bungalows.

From Meadowood, it’s a flat and easy bike ride north to Calistoga or south to the towns of Yountville and Napa. One day, we loaded our rented bikes in the car and drove to Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley where we biked up Dry Creek Road to the stunning Warm Springs Dam and beaches, and back on West Dry Creek Road. There was little traffic on the roads, but lots of activity in the vineyards, and the sun shone kindly for the four-hour ride. (We rented bikes from St. Helena Cyclery on Main Street.  Hybrid “comfort” bikes cost $35/day; road bikes are $65/day. Bike route maps are available, as is delivery for an added charge.)

Another day we parked in Yountville’s Vintage Marketplace, biked south to Napa, then climbed Mount Veeder Road that snakes past a bunch of wineries including Hess and Mt. Veeder, crests atop the Oakville Grade, then sends riders flying down Napa Valley's Dry Creek Road. 

In between bike rides and walks on Meadowood’s enchanting walking trail, there were memorable meals at Bottega, Bardessono and the resort’s Restaurant where chef Christopher Kostow blew me away with crispy artichokes served with “Molten Parmesan Tortellini” and tiny lamb noisettes, marinated in the citrusy herb mixture known as chermoula, and served with wisps of date and eggplant. Each course was paired with a small taste of an interesting wine…now that’s the way to taste wines in California’s wine country!

(Rooms at Meadowood start at about $450 but there are special packages available, such as the Bed & Breakfast package for $500 that includes upgraded studio accommodations,  a $50 credit for breakfast, and a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon.)

 

CRUISING FROM VENICE TO ROME ABOARD THE SEABOURN SPIRIT

This year, I went – kicking and screaming -- on my first cruise. 

For decades I’ve dodged all talk of cruises by friends and family. I didn’t want to be cooped up, I explained. I get seasick just looking at boats sloshing in a harbor.

But when my 87-year-old mother announced she was crossing theVenice-Rome cruise off her bucket list because she had no one to go with….well, hey…what’s a good daughter to do.

That’s how I found myself  in a Seabourn Spirit stateroom a few months ago, feeling the sway of the ship (even though we were still tied to the Venice dock) and wondering how the hell I was going to survive seven nights.

Not only did I survive, but I fell head over heels in love with the Seabourn line, with the huge personalities and remarkable efficiency of the crew, with food that rivaled that of America’s starred eateries, and with the giddy delight of watching miles of picture-perfect scenery glide past as I relaxed with my mother (right), sister and 23-year-old niece. 

Seabourn, as I now know, is one of the elite cruise lines. The guest count runs between 210 an d 400 (depending on the ship) and the pricing is all-inclusive. That means all food, beverages, alcoholic and otherwise, entertainment, and service (there’s no tipping). It’s not cheap – ignore the published prices and look for “deals” available if you book early or book last-minute. We paid about $350 per person per day; I met one couple who paid $250 per person per day by booking at the last minute.) It's definitely a splurge.  But with luxury hotel rooms in major cities going for 400 bucks a night and up (plus exorbitant taxes), we considered our Seabourn cruise  a great value.

After setting sail from Venice, we spent our first day alongside the Croatian island of Hvar, where we went on a walking tour, heard a men’s a cappella group sing in the courtyard of an ancient monastery, and hung out in the old, cobble-stoned port. The next day, Marina Day, was spent floating in the Adriatic, where we got to act like kids away at camp….playing with paddleboats, water skis and an inflated banana-like contraption that swirled us around in the sea while we screamed with glee.

Monopoli was the next stop. Of the several desirable shore excursions offered, we chose a walking tour of  Ostuni, the whitewashed town, chiseled into a hillside, that looks from a distance like a giant Dairy Queen ice cream cone. We also visited one of the oldest olive oil mills in Puglia, where we tasted oils from different olive varieties.

In the Sicilian hilltop town of Taormina, my mother and I poked around by ourselves, visiting the ancient Roman ampitheater, eating cannoli and drinking espresso at a sidewalk café, and strolling on the tiny beach below the town which we reached by a funicular. The Aeolian Islands offered a make-your-own pizza lunch and a bombastic show by the active volcano island, Stromboli. Our affable captain, Magnus Bengtsson, anchored the ship alongside the island after dark, so we could watch the fireworks while we dined on the open-air top deck. More pizza in Sorrento; a guided tour of the ruins of Pompei; and, finally, in Rome’s port of Civitavecchia, farewells to new friends, and hello to a new way of travel.

The Long and Short of It: 2009's Signature Dish

My weekend post about the Best Foods of 2009 omitted one very important “player” on the dining scene. That’s because Braised Short Ribs deserve their own story.

This meaty, melt-in-your-mouth-tender dish is hotter than hot. It shows up on menus in homey outposts of Americana and temples of haute cuisine alike. Folks in San Diego are calling the recently-concluded Restaurant Week “Short Rib Week,” because virtually every participating restaurant worth its finishing salt featured the cheap but cherished cut of meat.

These are some of the best rib riffs I found in 2009.

Chef Carl Schroeder’s Prime beef short ribs give new meaning to the word tender. The Market, Del Mar chef sears them first, then slowly braises them in an intensely flavorful  sauce of reduced veal stock and reduced Cabernet Sauvignon. Delicious but discreet accompaniments -- sweet onion-potato puree, Sherry-glazed cipollini onions and seasonal sauteed vegetable – allow the meat center stage.

At ART in Seattle’s Four Seasons Hotel, chef Kerry Sears did a special Valentine’s 2009 menu of dishes to go with sparkling wine. One of the loveliest was the Duo of Organic  Beef -- a grilled filet and braised short ribs, served with exotic mushrooms, delicate English peas, black cherries and a sweet tart verjus sauce.

One of my favorite local eateries, Beaumont’s in La Jolla’s Bird Rock neighborhood, doesn’t just settle for first-rate meat and long, careful cooking to win us over.  Here we’re talking  passion fruit-glazed short ribs, served with polenta soufflé, crispy leeks and a tiny taste of blue cheese fondue.

 

I’ve never met an Alex Stratta  creation that I didn’t love. And the braised short ribs from this cooking legend --- who dominated Las Vegas when he was at Renoir in the Mirage and continues to do so at Alex in the Wynn -- are a mouthwatering case in point. Stratta treats American Wagyu beef to 72 hours of braising, then serves it with onion jam, pancetta and whipped potatoes. In my book, that’s a better “pay-off” than even the loosest slot machine. This photo is from the Los Angeles Times' Las Vegas blog.

 

Not only did I discover a hidden gem of a restaurant when my East Coast family introduced me to Belford Bistro in Belford, New Jersey , I also discovered one of the tastiest short rib preparations. Husband-wife chef team Kurt Bomberger and Crista Trovato give their boneless ribs the classic treatment – seared and braised in Cabernet for four hours. They then team the ribs with  “sides” that threaten to steal the show. I loved the roasted butternut squash that’s browned in butter along with homemade gnocchi, herbs, spinach and pine nuts.

I’m pretty sure you can find a braised short rib dish in just about every block of New York City. But not many will rival that of chef Gavin Kaysen at Café Boulud. Kaysen does a Dry Aged Beef Duo that involves a perfectly lovely seared strip loin steak that’s blown away by the braised short ribs sharing the plate. A terrific cauliflower gratin and Swiss chard are on the side. 

 

 

 

Memorable Morsels....My Favorite Foods of 2009

All the world loves a list. And food lovers especially love lists of good things to eat and drink. Here, in no particular order, are my most delicious food discoveries of 2009.

 

I had never heard of BARLEY RISOTTO before I stumbled upon it at a tiny mountain inn in the Villnöss valley of northern Italy. We had been hiking for several hours in the shadows of the Dolomite mountains when the weather turned blustery. We stopped for lunch in the GeislerAlm, a chalet that looked like Heidi should be peeking out the window, where we were treated to this unforgettable “risotto” made with barley, onions, garlic, multi-colored confetti of bell peppers, gorgonzola cheese and ribbons of arugula. A beer and a slab of apple strudel with whipped cream further fortified us for the rest of the day’s hike.

 

I have a tendency to fuss the most over chef Sean O’Toole’s dessert of BRETON SHORTCAKE, Oregon huckleberries and fresh ginger ice cream. And, indeed, this dessert of  lemon-spritzed berries and slightly undercooked Sablee Breton (instead of making little cookies with the dough, O’Toole makes a loaf, then sautes each slice in butter) was amazing. But  the rest of our dinner at  the new Bardessono hotel in Napa was equally impressive and one of top favorites of the year: Alaskan halibut with whole Brussels sprouts sauteed with julienne of  young ginger and Meyer lemon skin, and moistened with Perigord truffle vinaigrette; and roasted pork loin with a warm bean salad, buttery, nutty La Ratte potatoes and a glossy mustard sauce.

At Sapphire Laguna in Laguna Beach, CREME BRULEE often comes as a tantalizing trio (pictured here). During a holiday lunch on the restaurant’s sunny, flower-festooned terrace, chef Azmin Ghahreman‘s threesome included delectable orange-chocolate, fresh strawberry, and, my favorite, Chai Tea crème brulee. Sweet and sassy, with a crackly sugar crust, it was an exciting modern riff on an old classic.

Elegant. Ethereal. That’s the GOAT CHEESE MOUSSE at Skopik & Lohn in Vienna, Austria. I’m guessing the trick is the whipped cream that’s folded in, though the fresh local goat cheese and gingered red bell pepper chutney certainly deserve credit too.  

TUNA TARTARE is like the little black cocktail dress. Dress it up, dress it down, it’s always in style. My favorite in 2009 was at Market, Del Mar where chef Carl Schroeder accessorized the silken cubes with minted farmers market apples, diced chilies, ginger-spiked aioli and curry vinaigrette.

 Three months after my first-ever CRUISE experience -- on the Seabourn Spirit -- I’m still in awe of chef Bjoern Wassmuth’s (left) performance. Crispy corn-crusted prawns with fennel slaw and romesco sauce;  red carrot and curry potage with shrimp dumpings; warm ricotta and potato ravioli in truffle butter; chilled  corn and lemongrass soup with lobster salad and spicy shrimp oil; swordfish Sicilian style with  chili, capers, olives and basil...and much more. Each dish was picture-perfect and served by an attractive and amiable staff.

The menu at Fig in Santa Monica’s Fairmont Miramar Hotel calls it SPINACH RISOTTO. I call it Spectacular.The first sensation was butter.  Sweet, creamy, luxurious, remarkably rich.
Next came the intoxicating aroma of anise…and the flavor, too, in wisps of fresh tarragon.
Then there was one perfect spring pea…a tiny carrot that tasted like it had just been pulled from the garden…a baby mushroom as smooth as, well, a baby’s cheek…two lithe asparagus spears, one green, one white. And, finally, rice.  Each grain of Carnaroli cooked a point and imbued with all the summer flavors playing together on the plate. 

The world's going bonkers over BOURBON these days.  And anyone who tastes the Kentucky Tuxedo concocted by bartender David Nelson at Spur Gastropub in Seattle will be happy to jump on the bandwagon. A marriage of Bulleit Bourbon, Sherry, homemade lavender syrup and homemade orange bitters, is smooth and elegant, with a come-hither aroma and layers of flavor.

Every June, German and Austrian restaurants become a raucous celebration of WHITE ASPARAGUS. At Glacis Beisl in Vienna, Austria the pale, slender stalks even end up in dessert – as three plump clouds of mousse (right) floating on a rich, condensed sauce of berry coulis accented with aged balsamic vinegar.  A shower of powdered sugar and a few ripe strawberries and raspberries completed the fascinating sweet-vegetal creation. 

Deftly sauteed SCALLOPS, at Seattle’s new Anchovies & Olives restaurant, were sublime on their own, nothing short of genius when garnished with roasted nubbins of eggplant, cauliflower, pine nuts and red bell pepper puree. And that was just one of the many dishes that knocked my socks off at the newest eatery from super-chef Ethan Stowell.

BURRATA -- This voluptuous mass of mozzarella and fresh cream, dreamed up a century ago by some dairy farmers in Puglia, Italy, took the foodie world by storm in 2009.

• At Bottega in Napa Valley, it was accompanied by butter-blessed cubes of roasted butternut squash mingled with chewy bits of mushroom and soft, golden shallot shards, and moistened with a subtle brown butter vinaigrette. Oh, yes, balsamic caviar – made by reducing the vinegar, “jell-ing” it, and dicing it into weensy baubles -- crowned the creation.

• The creamy-dreamy cheese gets yet another stamp in its passport when young Boston chef Will Gilson dusts it with Za’atar, drizzles it with lemon oil and teams it with a sassy spiced date puree. Za”atar is a popular spice in the Middle East where it usually consists of dried thyme, oregano, sumac and cumin, all crushed together with toasted sesame seeds and salt. Gilson is chef-owner of Garden in the Cellar near Harvard Square, Cambridge.

• Warm Burrata with Beets and Crushed Marcona Almonds won me over at Scampo in Boston where celeb chef Lydia Shire also pairs the cheese with pistachios and a hot leek tart, and makes a memorable BLT, too.

 

TRES LECHE CAKE, from the A. R. Valentien kitchen of Torrey Pines Lodge Executive Chef Jeff Jackson, is a sublime creation of sponge cake soaked in condensed milk, whole milk and heavy cream. A popular dish on the potluck and church-social circuit, this traditional Latin American dessert (translation: three milks) is often soggy, overly sweet and piled high with frosting. But this version, by pastry chef John Harmeyer, is an elegant, individual, dome-shaped package with a deliriously smooth, moist texture and a rich, caramelized creamy taste. Topped with cinnamon-scented whipped cream and tangy pomegranate seeds, it’s served with a fresh quince-apple puree and a weensy poached apple.

Not every great dish of 2009 was at a restaurant; some were in my own kitchen.  I loved the FETTUCCINE with Summer Corn, Bacon, and Shiitake Mushrooms  from New York City chef Andrew Carmellini’s new book “Urban Italian: Simple Recipes and True Stories from a Life in Food.” The recipe is an easy, elegant, supremely satisfying creation that screams “summer” while offering the high-level comfort-quotient of winter foods.

 

 LITTLE THINGS MEAN A LOT

• Broccoli rabe, sauted with EVOO and teamed with crisp polenta croutons at Scampo, Boston.

• Fresh baby corn, still in their husks, were roasted and spritzed with citrusy yuzu-butter. Roasted cauliflower rosettes had a sweet subtle, lightly caramelized flavor accentuated by a barely-there sauce of pureed jalapenos, garlic, Japanese vinegar and discreet grapeseed oil. I went to NOBU San Diego to feast on the restaurant’s signature miso-marinated black cod, but I found myself spellbound by the elegance and effortlessness of these two simple vegetable dishes from the brick oven.

• There are a lot of good reasons to visit Cambridge, Massachusetts. But only one of them involves oatmeal, crystallized ginger, plump sun-dried cherries, toasted walnuts and pecans. That would be the oatmeal cookie at Hi-Rise Bread Company.

• At Chez Papa Resto in San Francisco, chef David Bazirgan does all the big things right. But somehow it’s the little things -- pommes frites with spunky aïoli  and a decadent potato & fennel gratin Dauphinois – that bowled me.

• What can you say about a spiedini with crusty grilled hunks of rustic house-baked bread and fresh creamy mozzarella, all drenched with an in-your-face anchovy-herb olive oil?  More, please?  At Tin Table, Seattle.

 

Seafood and Cheese: Not Always a No-No

For years I’ve heard from Italian cookbooks, chefs and servers that one should never eat cheese with seafood. Ask for a sprinkle of Parmesan on your spaghetti alle vongole in any serious Italian restaurant and you’re likely to get a look that’ll wilt your escarole.

But, clearly, this is not a black-and-white issue.

 

Earlier this week, I dined at Kapi Kapi, a magical restaurant on the road between Quepos and Manuel Antonio on Costa Rica’s western shore. Set into a leafy hollow, the restaurant fairly floats on multiple levels, fully exposed to the air, and wrapped in tropical plants and flowers. Flickering candles provide the lighting. The cuisine consists of local ingredients, deftly seasoned with Thai, creole and Mediterranean spices, and presented as dishes that mesh perfectly with the warm, balmy environment.

The special of the night was wahoo, also known as ono in Hawaii. Though I was inclined to order the macadamia nut-crusted mahi mahi – which I had eaten on my last visit and loved, I couldn’t ignore our server’s impassioned plea to try the wahoo special. “It’s served with oven-roasted cherry tomatoes and fried farmer’s cheese,” he exclaimed. Farmer’s cheese?, you ask incredulously. My sentiments exactly.

Much to my amazement the fish and cheese were an admirable pair. “It’s the fastest swimmer in the ocean,” said Kapi Kapi chef Darren Remy, by way of explaining the fish’s firm, meaty and flavorful flesh. Indeed, good wahoo is almost like a hunk o’ steak, except this hunk is packed with prized Omega-3 fatty acids.  And it’s this meatiness that makes wahoo a fitting partner for the cheese.

Remy first sauteed three medallions of wahoo in clarified butter with salt and pepper, then perched them atop a slab of local queso fresco (fresh white, semi-soft cheese) that he had dipped in flour, egg and panko crumbs, then pan-fried. For color and sass on the side, there were cherry tomatoes, oven-roasted slowly with extra virgin olive oil, garlic and thyme.

“This Costa Rican cheese is very pure, mild, almost like tofu,” Remy went on.  “It’s a perfect canvas for the fish and the garnish.”

Remy’s menu also includes crispy phyllo seafood “cigars” served with wasabi aioli; peppercorn seared ahi with Thai green papaya salad;  lobster ravioli with saffron beurre blanc; and slow-braised chicken with chipotle citrus glaze.

There are triumphs on the dessert menu, too, including a pineapple upside-down cake with rum raisin ice cream and the Mandarin Lime Pie, pictured here, that's a creamy, cloud-like wonder in a macadamia nut crust.

 

How I Spent My XMAS Vacation (Hint: It Involves Chocolate)

My desk, trash cans and kitchen counters are littered with discarded chocolate bar wrappers and fancy boxes.

It all started with an article, a week or so before Christmas, in the New York Times.

In a column headlined  “The Chocolate Wars,” food writer Kim Severson wrote about Kraft’s bid to buy the British chocolatier Cadbury.  In the event that Kraft’s offer of $16.2 billion is rebuffed, Hershey’s is waiting in the wings to make its move.

Needless to say, chocolate-loving Brits (who, by the way, eat twice as much of the stuff as U.S. fans) are freaked out about either possibility. According to the article “The prospect of Americans taking over production of their beloved Dairy Milk and Flake bars has sent the country into an emotional tailspin.”

But it was the quote from London Mayor Boris Johnson that actually got me started on my choco-binge. “We face an appalling choice of succumbing either to Kraft, makers of the plastic flaps of orange cheese, or to Hershey, whose Hershey bars have been likened in flavor — by independent experts — to a mixture of soap powder and baby vomit.”

Reeeeaaaaally? Soap powder and baby vomit?  Begging the obvious question – how does this bloke know what baby vomit tastes like? – I was fascinated by the comparison and promptly hustled out to my nearest supermarket – 45 minutes away from my mountain house in the boonies of southwest Colorado - to buy my first Hershey’s bar since, probably, 6^th grade.

After assessing that iconic slab (I swear I don't get any soap powder or baby vomit though I will admit it's missing the intense, pedigreed, percentaged chocolate flavor we're used to these days), I moved on to all the other chocolate gifts I received from family, friends and Santa, or that I was suckered into buying for myself while shopping for others.

 

Here, in plenty of time for Valentine’s Day shopping,  are some of the tasty morsels I discovered.

 Trader Joe’s Dark Chocolate Crisps. Nestled into a plastic, three-compartment tray, these Pringles look-alikes are not going to win any beauty contests. But the dark chocolate is rich and satisfying, and the paper-thin, curvy shape, speckled with puffed rice bits creates a party on your tongue. And if that’s not enough reason to celebrate, the Crisps cost less than 5 bucks a package AND give you 12 pieces for just 220 calories! Since these things are so rich, I figure most people will stop at six…meaning a serious pig-out for just 100 calories.

 

About 10 years ago, a part-time pastry chef, part-time ski instructor in Telluride, Colorado started playing with chocolate in her kitchen. Today, Patty Denny’s Telluride Truffle is a delicious success story with scrumptious candies, cleverly named, stylishly embellished and tucked inside elegant, emblematic packaging. (Truffles and boxes are shaped like a mountain range.)

The skiers and boarders in you life will flip over Telluride Truffle bonbons called “Alpenglow,” “Black  Diamond,” “Snow Capped” (a snow-capped ‘peak’ of dark chocolate with white chocolate filling scented with Myers run), and the all-white “Powder Day.”

(That's a Black Diamond truffle at the beginning of this post.) Folks who don’t give a  hoot about first tracks or moguls will flip, nonetheless, over the smooth texture and subtle flavors  -- including Jack Daniels, hazelnut, Grand Marnier, salt and tequila.

The Trio – 3 large truffles in assorted flavors, is probably the most popular choice at $12. The Fourteener ($44) is so called because there are 14 gorgeous truffles inside, and the 14,000-plus Mt. Wilson is just outside Telluride. There’s also chocolate truffle sauce and hot chocolate and cookies, which I haven’t tried. Check out the selection on the company's attractive and easy-to-use Web site.

 

Can’t afford the calories or the big bucks? How about a chocolate M&M’s chap stick (which is what we call call it even though there's just one ChapStick)? Yeah, well, it was news to me, too. Cosmetic company Bonne Bell has a line of “Lip Smackers” that includes chocolate-flavored lip balm, along with tubes dressed up like Starbursts, Skittles and Dr. Pepper.

Personally, I detest any “flavoring” in chap stick, but these things actually smell delicious and have a very subtle flavor that’s inoffensive. They're smooth and creamy, and they’re a pretty good conversation piece, too. A “trio” of Smackers is $4.50 on-line; somewhat cheaper at stores like Kohl's and Target.

Hershey’s is great when you’re looking for a chocolate bar to cheer you up or drown your sorrows. But if you’re looking for enlightenment, Vosges Haut Chocolat is clearly the way to go. These upscale bars and truffles start with the finest chocolates, then add a staggering variety of nuts, spices, herbs, teas and other flavoring agents.

I’m partial to the Gianduja bar, with almont and caramelized hazelnut paste; and the Naga bar with sweeet Indian curry and coconut in a milk chocolate base. But if goji berries, matcha tea, chipotle chilies, ginger or wasabi float your boat, Vosges has a bar for you. The company’s newest flavors involve applewood smoked bacon and alderwood smoked salt. Vosges is widely available at upscale markets including Whole Foods.  A bar is typically about $7; a mix-n-match selection of six bars is $37.

New Sandwiches in Town: Naanini

Naan, the hand-stretched Indian flatbread that’s baked in a traditional tandoori oven, seems to be the fashionable carbo-slice of the moment.  Once only available at ethnic markets and curry palaces, it’s now showing up in ordinary supermarkets and even in the bread baskets of Contemporary American Cuisine eateries.

Last night I was playing with a package of Whole Foods brand “365” Whole Wheat Tandoori Naan and I stumbled upon a wildly flavorful, wonderfully healthy take on panini – naanini.

The “365” bread has impressive flavor --- it’s tangy, with subtle “charred” undertones.  The surface is attractively bubbled, blistered and slightly charred. The nutritional profile – stone ground whole wheat flour, a bit of buttermilk, soybean oil, wheat bran and a few other ingredients – makes it superior to the white bread usually involved in panini.

Naan is easy to use and very versatile. No fancy-schmancy panini machines needed. Just toss a slab on the backyard grill or a stove-top grill pan. Add a topping and either fold over or eat as is. Part pita, part pizza, part panino…totally satisfying.

Last night I used a stove-top grill pan, lightly brushed with peanut oil so I could get it extremely hot before adding the flatbread (other oils would smoke sooner). I flipped the bread a few times, lifting it off when the natural “char” was slightly darkened, and the rich, tangy smell drove me crazy. I then added some shaved Italian fontina cheese, which has a natural affinity with the tangy whole wheat bread.

(This remarkable cheese comes from the Val D’Aosta of notthern Italy. It’s an intense cow’s milk cheese with a nutty,  herbaceous flavor that's quite pungent. Fontina is also made in Denmark, Sweden and France, but those versions have none of the Italian cheese’s deep and pronounced flavor. It’s available at cheese shops, gourmet markets and at Amazon.com.

Fifteen seconds under the broiler and I had a new love.

This morning I discovered the virtues of leftover naanini. I slid the leftover, fontina-topped slices back under the broiler for 15 seconds, then plopped Stonewall Kitchens’ Tangerine Marmalade atop the bubbling cheese. Outtasite.

 

"It's a Wonderful Loaf"

Scott Joseph, a longtime friend and foodie colleague, features a delicious walk down memory lane on his Web site ScottJosphOrlando.com.

Dubbed "It's a Wonderful Loaf: Two Holiday Traditions Combined," Scott's post celebrates the classic Jimmy Stewart-Donna Reed Christmas film and the awesome Sesame Twist Bread that his mother used to bake. We're taken, step by step, through both the movie and the recipe.

"Ironically, you'll probably be testing the water just at the time George, as a young boy, jumps into the icy water to save his brother, Harry, from drowning. Stir water until yeast dissolves, then stir in cooled milk mixture."

It's a fun read and a recipe worth keeping.

In Praise of Blondie Sundaes...and Belford Bistro

What donuts are to Homer Simpson, marshmallow is to me. I grew up in Boston on jars of Durkee-Mower’s Marshmallow Fluff, slathering it on peanut butter sandwiches, swirling it in homemade fudge, glopping it into hot chocolate, and, when I was bored or down-in-the-dumps, spooning it straight from the chunky glass jar.

 

All this may account partially for my falling in love with Belford Bistro last weekend.  This charming neighborhood café in Belford, New Jersey serves up a Blondie Sundae --topped with a craggy mount of homemade, bruleed marshmallow – that is awesome.  Underneath the voluminous cap hovers homemade peanut butter ice cream studded with chunks of Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups and a dense, brown-sugar brownie. It’s quintessential Americana, comfort food with class.

But I said partially. There are plenty of other reasons why I was smitten by this low-key, out-of-the-way eatery.

Opened about two years ago by husband-wife chef team Kurt Bomberger  and Crista Trovato, Belford Bistro is tucked away in a non-descript strip mall in Belford (population: less than 1,500) in Middletown Township, Monmouth County, New Jersey. Though the façade may, charitably, be called non-descript, the interior is warm and welcoming, with well-spaced tables, a partially-open kitchen and a quiet sense of style.

That’s reason #1.

Then there’s the fact that it’s BYOB, with no corkage charge. Bomberger explained to me why it’s easier or wiser or more profitable or whatever for them to skip the liquor license, but honestly I was too busy eating to absorb his whole story. All you really need to know is that you can bring exactly the wine you’re craving that night, and pay Costco prices instead of those on a (traditionally) inflated wine list.

Reasons 3 thru 32 are on the menu.

We were a party of eight and each dish we ordered was cleverly conceived and skillfully executed. Bomberger and Trovato (who, by the way, met while they were both cooking at Windows on the World) are creative cooks who bring out the best in their fine ingredients without falling into the overkill mode of so many of today’s chefs.  (The two are also veterans of New York City’s Aquavit, Gramercy Tavern and Ocean Grill.)

The Bistro offers New American cuisine, both familiar fare (fresh pappardelle with Bolognese sauce) and trendy takes (bacon-wrapped scallops on fresh horseradish fingerling potato salad). There’s a simple ground sirloin burger on a brioche roll and a more involved “signature dish” of seared day boat scallops nestled on truffle butter-blessed risotto with melted leeks and crisp asparagus spears (pictured here).

Boneless short ribs are seared and slowly coaxed to complete tenderness in Cabernet wine and veal stock, then served atop a mix of homemade gnocchi, roasted butternut squash, butter and herbs. A bit of spinach and toasted pine nuts completes the pretty picture.

Hefty, well-seasoned crab cakes are served with lemon scallion aioli and a salad of mache and fresh herbs. Salads are varied – goat cheese, Boston Bibb, "Duck Bistro "with arugula, peanut brittle and miso vinaigrette – and delicious.

Belford Bistro offers excellent value.  Substantial first courses – including seared tuna sashimi and five-cheese agnolotti – average $12; well-garnished entrees run from $12 to about $26/$27. Portions are large enough for leftovers; many appetizers are suitable as entrée.

For those of you whose teeth are still aching from my description of the Blondie Sundae, the Bistro does offer some more, er, restrained desserts including an elegant espresso chocolate mousse, warm apple spice cake with caramel gelato and Tahitian vanilla crème brulee.

It’s the possibility of finding a place like Belford Bistro – the treasured diamond in the rough -- that keeps professional restaurant critics sane, and game for another meal day after day after day.

Belford Bistro is located at  870 Main Street; (732) 495-8151.

Giving Thanks for Butternut and Burrata

Butternut squash is the darling of today’s chefs who tuck it into ravioli, fold it into risotto, mash and top it with frizzled leeks, puree it with ginger for a sublime soup, and much, much more.

I’m a huge fan of the homely, hard-to-peel wonder. Last fall, while traveling in Austria, I managed to eat butternut squash soup in a different restaurant every day for 21 days. My post about the adventure includes photos that’ll make your mouth water.

 

But recently, I found a new object of my affection in Napa Valley. That would be the combination of butternut and burrata at Bottega, chef/restaurateur Michael Chiarello’s newest restaurant in the Yountville.

(For those who haven't made the acquaintance of this insanely rich Italian cheese, it's a type of fresh mozzarella that's wrapped around heavy cream. Tear it apart or poke in a fork and you're awash in pure, sweet, fresh cream goodness.)

Bottega's Antipasti menu said simply Burrata. But, the descriptive words underneath made me drool.

“Creamy mozzarella burrata with roasted butternut squash, caramelized mushrooms and shallots, brown butter vinaigrette, balsamic caviar.”

It was a “Be still, my heart” moment.

 

And the dish delivered, big time. Large fleshy, butter-blessed cubes of orange squash mingled with chewy bits of mushroom (the server said porcini) and soft, golden shallot shards. A couple of miraculously moist blobs of burrata clung to the heap, and the clever vinaigrette (who’s ever heard of a butter vinaigrette?) laced the veggies and swirled around the plate.

“Thanksgiving,” I whispered as I ate the last morsel of a portion that could have easily served four.  “This is pure Thanksgiving.”

But I couldn’t wait that long to try it at home. My version (pictured here) wasn’t as lovely as Chiarello’s...my cubes of squash were not as firm and distinct. And I chose to sauté  a cup of chopped sweet onion with the mushrooms instead of the shallots. But the final result was as delicious and comforting as his.

The butternut squash triumph wasn’t the only thing to celebrate at Bottega. A quivering pecorino cheese pudding,  served with a crispy, crumb-cloaked soft-boiled egg and oven-roasted rapini, was fabulous.  As was a salad of roasted golden and chiogga beets dressed with pistachio vinaigrette and Point Reyes blue cheese. And a pasta with Bolognese sauce that sounded commonplace was remarkable for the depth of flavor of its veal, pork and porcini sauce.

 

 The atmosphere at Bottega, too, is a draw. Located in Yountville's historic Marketplace 1870 , the restaurant features roaring fireplaces, a stylish lounge with good-looking people two-deep at the bar, a sprawling outdoor terrace and several pretty dining rooms with views of the bustling  open kitchen. 

For folks who still haven't settled on a menu for today's feast (that would be those risk-takers who were at Vons and Whole Foods last night), here's the recipe for the butternut and burrata special. Plain roasted turkey is an ideal complement for the richness of the dish.

Everyone else can consider it for the December holidays.

Roasted Butternut Squash and Mushrooms with Burrata

Serves 6

 

3 ½ cups mushrooms, any variety, sliced or cut into small chunks

5 cups 1-inch cubes of peeled butternut squash, about 2 ½ pounds

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided use (more, to taste)

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

12 ounces burrata

 

Brown Butter Vinaigrette

6 tablespoons unsalted butter  

1 tablespoon minced sage

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Pinch of salt, kosher or gray salt

 

Preheat oven to 400 degrees,

Heat a large ovenproof skillet over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons olive oil. When the butter has melted, add the squash cubes to the pan and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the squash is caramelized, about 5 minutes. Slide the pan into the oven and roast until the squash looks brown on the edges, about 20 minutes.

While the squash roasts, make the brown butter vinaigrette. Melt  the 6 tablespoons butter in a saute pan. Brown the sage for one minute, then  pour in the vinegar and let it reduce by half. Don’t stir or touch it. Just keep it on a simmer, gently reducing until thickened. Add the salt at the end.

To sauté the mushrooms, add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons olive oil to a saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms, cooking until they begin to release their water, about 8 minutes. Add the shallots to the pan and sauté until brown, tossing so they cook evenly. Season with salt and pepper and add another tablespoon of butter if they look dry. Gently fold mushroom mixture into the squash cubes.

To serve, divide the squash-mushroom mix evenly among 6 plates. With your hands, tear the burrata into medium-small pieces, scattering it over the vegetables. Drizzle with the vinaigrette.