The first sensation was butter. Sweet, creamy, luxurious, remarkably rich.
Next came the intoxicating aroma of anise…and the flavor, too, in wisps of fresh tarragon.
Then there was one perfect spring pea…a tiny carrot that tasted like it had just been pulled from the garden…a baby mushroom as smooth as, well, a baby’s cheek…two lithe asparagus spears, one green, one white.
And, finally, rice. Each grain of Carnaroli cooked a point and imbued with all the summer flavors playing together on the plate.
The menu at Fig in Santa Monica’s Fairmont Miramar Hotel calls this creation, simply, Spinach Risotto.
I call it Simply Spectacular.
A funny thing happened to hotel dining in the U.S. in the last decade. It went upscale. It became, in many cases, as big a draw for a property as a great ocean view, a chichi spa or 1,000-thread-count sheets.
Fig, open just since early Spring, is an exciting example of this phenomenon. With its irresistible blend of French and American classic fare, and its stylish bistro feel, it has rapidly become a favorite of hotel guests and So Cal locals alike.
The man at the helm is Ray Garcia, a Los Angeles native who was on his way to law school when he was de-railed by food. (Garcia is pictured here in a Los Angeles Times photo.) A veteran of the kitchens at French Laundry, Cyrus and The Peninsula Beverly Hills, he’s a true devotee of the local-and-seasonal mantra. In addition to combing the famed Santa Monica Farmers Market himself, he employs a “forager” who’s charged with traveling up and down the state looking for exceptional produce and other foods.
Which brings us back to the rockin’ risotto.
It may be called Spinach Risotto, but there’s a heck of a lot more than spinach in there. I loved the weensy parsnip, the frizzy frisee, the mushrooms and the wisps of fresh herbs.
I also loved the vegetable chunks in Garcia’s Vegetable Curry, which was assertively and authentically seasoned. No one-powder-fits-all for this guy.
And I was blown away by the heavenly puree of Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes on the menu), punched up with roasted garlic and sprinkled with toasted pepita seeds, that was served in a tiny iron casserole.
Our memorable meal started off with a crackly-crisp Tarte Flambee, Alsace’s answer to the thin-crust pizza. Topped with fromage blanc, bacon lardons and nubbins of blue cheese (the pictured salmon tarte is another option), it was the perfect accompaniment to a leisurely cocktail hour. And Fig is just the place for a leisurely cocktail hour. The bartenders are skilled and creative. (I loved my straight-up cocktail of bourbon, muddled blackberries, a hint of cassis and fresh sage.) The server didn’t answer “Say, what??” when my husband requested Aperol and soda. And, the wine list – of glasses, carafes (2 glasses) and bottles, is thoughtful and appealing.
Starters included freshly shucked oysters from Carlsbad (Calif.) that were lightly dusted with cornmeal, fried, and served with a chorizo-flecked remoulade sauce; and tender baby artichokes teamed with peppery watercress and cubes of charred haloumi cheese.
The other end of the feast was no less intriguing. We shared a sensational daily special of roasted plums, accented with lemon basil and daubed with fluffed mascarpone cheese. But, five days later, I’m still kicking myself that I passed up the FIG “Newton” with Greek yogurt ice cream and Port wine. Next time.
The final tab at Fig is surprisingly gentle for such upscale fare. Most appetizers and starters are under 10 bucks. Entrees generally range from $17 to $26. The steak frites offerings are more; an eight-ounce bavette is $27. Desserts are just $7 or $8. Our bill, for a soup-to-nuts affair with cocktails and wine, was about $140.
Fig doesn’t look much like your traditional hotel dining room. Though it offers breakfast, lunch and dinner, it still manages to have an inspired sense of style. The look is California bistro, unfussy but fashionable, with iconic French bistro chairs, waffle-weave dishtowels as napkins, a high, white-washed wood ceiling, floor-to-ceiling doors to the garden terrace and a curvy pewter bar centered with two large wooden platters of gorgeous cheese.
Fig is open daily but dinner is served only Tuesday - Saturday. The Fairmont Miramar Hotel, which is an appealing mix of high-rise rooms with ocean views and the cozy garden bungalows that are so L.A., is located at 101 Wilshire Blvd., at the corner of Ocean Avenue. Call (310) 319-3111 for reservations.
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