Matters of Taste

Hooray for Hamersley

The end of the year was also the end of an era for fans of Gordon Hamersley.  The Boston superchef, one of the first to bring contemporary cuisine to this city of baked beans and chowdah, closed the doors of Hamersley’s Bistro for the last time in late October and left me mourning one of my favorite restaurants of all times. It also left the city of Boston going through withdrawal --- what would life be without Hamersley's famed Roast Chicken with Garlic, Lemon and Parsley?

 

                         

I first wrote about this South End bistro in 1987, the year it opened across the street from its final home. The neighborhood was a much grittier place in those days; Hamersley’s was one of the forces driving the gentrification of what is today a beautiful, stylish, user-friendly quarter.

For 27 years Hamersley could be found in front of the stove every night, dressed in his trademark blue Red Sox cap, actually cooking during an era when many chefs became globe-trotting stars with nary a smudge of olive oil on their aprons.

                              

He worked with Wolfgang Puck at Ma Maison in L.A.way back in the late ‘70s, and Lydia Shire when he moved back to Boston, and he won every chef and restaurant award there is at some point in his career. (Photo from Boston magazine.) Yet for all his celebrity, Hamersley was happiest cooking in the restaurant he ran with his wife, wine connoisseur Fiona Hamersley; cooking at home with his family; and sharing his time and expertise with aspiring chefs, food writers and assorted non-profit organizations.

So what are we fans going do about his farewell? We’re going to cook up our favorite Hamersley signature dishes in our own kitchens, thanks to “Bistro Cooking At Home.” 

 

                                           

And that means Hamersley’s Roast Chicken with Garlic, Lemon and Parsley.  The foodie blog Serious Eats called it “the most well documented dish in the city.” And at the Bistro’s last dinner service more than 150 orders --- rubbed with a shallot-mustard-herb marinade, par-roasted, set atop chicken stock,  topped with slices of fresh lemon and, finally, popped into the oven to finish --- were cooked and served with roasted onions and crisp potato wedges.

 

But there are other yummy candidates for our memorial dinners, too.  To flip through my copy of the cookbook is to find stained pages surrounding Risotto with Butternut Squash and Maple Syrup; Chicken Piperade; Grilled Flank Steak with Coffee and Black Pepper Marinade (out of this world); Crispy Polenta Triangles with Chanterelles and Asiago….and, in my opinion, the best dish in the book, and the best rack of lamb in the world: Sear-Roasted Rack of Lamb with a Curry, Date, Chile and Almond Crust. (Photo by Bon Appetit.)

                                    


The Piperade recipe can be found in my earlier blog post. Ditto, the flank steak. And, courtesy of BostonChefs.com, the recipe for the Rack of Lamb.

But don’t be silly and limit yourself to these triumphs. Buy the book right now, forpetesake, and celebrate the genius of Gordon Hamersley for years to come. Available at Amazon.com.

 

Singing the Praises of Foie Gras...at Rotisserie G

Talk about a marriage made in heaven. The Foie Gras Dacquoise at Rotisserie Georgette in New York City was created when Café Boulud pastry chef Ashley Brauze brought one of her ethereal dacquoise creations home from work to her husband, Chad, head chef at the new and noteworthy Rotisserie Georgette.

“I can do that,” was Chad’s reaction to his wife’s delicious dessert.  “She lectured me on the technique, gave me the ratios for the dacquoise and the gelée, and I took it from there,” said the 35-year-old Chad who met his wife when they both worked at Restaurant Daniel.

                                 

The result is an appetizer that impresses with its good looks, sumptuous texture, and close-your-eyes-and-swoon flavors.

Brauze (Chad, that is) started with the “pastry” layer, making a classic dacquoise with egg whites and crushed pistachios instead of the traditional almond flour. Next, he seasoned the liver lobe with salt, white pepper, sugar and a splash of Sauterne, rolled it into a torchon and confit’d (basically, slowly poached) it in foie gras fat.

After passing it through a fine sieve to smooth the texture, he assembled it in a pastry frame, just as Ashley assembles all her marjolaine and dacquoise confections. For the crowning gelée layer, Brauze used the cooking liquid from poached rhubarb, using just enough gelatin to set it. Candied pistachios, rhubarb chutney and crisp toasts made a great dish even greater.

                      

As wonderful as the foie gras is, the real star of the show at Rotisserie Georgette is rotisserie chicken, dozens of them glistening and twirling away in the back of the restaurant on two impressive contraptions imported from France. The birds come from an Amish farm in Pennsylvania, chosen, according to Ms. G, for the quality of their skin and very moist flesh. They’re dry-brined with herbs de Provence and roasted over open flame. They are simple, and simply delicious.

                                  

Side dishes – such as warm baby beets with red onion vinaigrette and blue cheese --- are also simple and satisfying. In addition, there are many ways to kick off the feast --- a yummy Salade G (above in photo by the New York Times), rillettes, pate, mussels, smoked salmon --- but to miss the heavenly concoction that prompted this paean would be crazy.

                           

The 9-month-old Rotisserie G is the life-long dream of Georgette Farkas, a woman about whom restaurant critic John Mariani said:  “In the backbiting NYC restaurant world, I doubt there is anyone who enjoys a higher likeability rating than Georgette Farkas.” (Photo by MeetUp.com.)

I count myself one of Farkas’ fans, having worked with her for more than 15 years when I was Food Editor of the San Diego Union-Tribune and she was communications director for super-chef Daniel Boulud.  The high-energy Farkas, who started cooking professionally when she was a teenager, now brings her well-known attention to detail, diplomacy and sophistication to bear on her first restaurant.

Rotisserie Georgette, with its Old World charm, new-world comfort and refreshingly uncomplicated food, is at 14 East 60^th Street, just off Central Park. It’s open every day except Sunday.

Belly Up: Bottled Cocktails are the Rage

Bet you never thought of tossing a little tincture of chicken bone into your evening martini, did you?

Well, Ryan Chetiyawardana thought about it. Did it. And ended up with a wildly popular bar in London and a loud shout-out in a recent Wall Street Journal article. All after just a few months in business.(Photo by Hg2 Magazine.)

                                 

The story of Chetiyawardana’s White Lyan is as much about what’s not in the bar as what is there. There is no back bar with recognizable labels, no lemons or limes, no perishable cream or eggs, no olives, no ice. What’s there is an array of bottled cocktails, lots of them, hi-balls, classics, shots, and esoteric “signature” drinks, all precisely mixed earlier in the day, decanted into branded White Lyan bottles, and stored at the optimal chill in large glass refrigerators that glow futuristically behind the bar. 

                                   

Bottled cocktails have been “catching on steadily in recent years across the bartending universe,” says WSJ reporter Jay Cheshes. In addition to the obvious advantages for customers --- no waiting while the bartender shakes the drinks of the group that arrived before you --- there’s also the issue of quality control for the owners and the tantalizing possibilities of mass-marketing quality drinks for home use.

On a recent visit to London I got to see Chetiyawardana –-- let’s call him Ryan, shall we --- in action behind the bar at White Lyan in London’s Hoxton neighborhood. (“When I was young, some of my friends called me Lyan instead of Ryan,” he explained with a laugh.)

When the evening’s first guest ordered a Moby Dick Sazerac, Ryan spritzed a sliver of rice paper with absinthe, then set it afloat in the cocktail he poured from a one-serving bottle. Next-up: an Old-Fashioned that he poured into the “right” glass, then floated a soupcon of honey poured from a bottle lined with organic beeswax. Ryan's sister (and business partner), Natasha, came next, opting for an East End Rickey of gin and "bitter English soda."

The handsome, well-spoken Ryan, a two-time “UK Bartender of the Year," brings an artist’s flair and a scientist’s discipline to crafting cocktails. He buys spirits directly from distillers and makes his own base alcohols (gin, rye, whisky, rum, etc.), cordials and bitters; filters the bar’s water, adding just the right mineral mix; freezes some glasses, refrigerates others; all with perfection in mind. 

His Bone Dry Martini features a tincture made from chicken bones that are roasted and dissolved in phosphoric acid; the Sazerac (below, in photo by AnotherMag.com) contains a splash of ambergris, the whale secretion that’s used in perfume manufacture. The Monkey Ball involves scotch, chocolate, a tincture of black truffle, banana distillate and banana liqueur.

                                    

Even the minimalist martini is a production: “There’s a textural aspect,” says Ryan. “A gin martini is about aromatics, channeling aromas, soft on the palate; while the vodka martini is about being clean, flinty, a crystallized moment.”

So, the big question. Why?

It’s all about control --- “Total control, about taking the time beforehand to make the best drink we can, something we’re 100 percent happy with.”

It’s about timing –-- “We can serve a lot of people in perfect synchronization…and our bartenders get more time to chat with guests.”

It’s about changing the customer experience --- “We try to fit the cocktail to the need, to get (customers) out of their comfort zones and understand their own palates better.”

                            

I wasn’t sure what my “need” was on the frigid, rainy night I arrived at White Lyan (Photo from Xing blog.) Did I want something “restorative,” something to “pick me up?” Ryan coached. When I offered that my ideal cocktail wakes up my palate and makes me hungry for dinner, Ryan immediately suggested a Negroni, my favorite cocktail. Out came the chilled glass, which he spritzed with orange distillate. He then lit a match and dropped it into the glass, covering it with another glass until the flame went out. With the match removed, he poured in the bottled mix of White Lyan gin, sweet vermouth, bitters, and layered zests. The concoction was aromatic, rich, spicy, with a bright citrus note on top. As we chatted, the flavors warmed and intensified.

White Lyan is not the place for folks with a Burger King mentality. Ryan is proud of the fact that his is the only bar in London with a “House-Drinks-Only” policy. Teeter in here after a tough day dreaming about a Jack and Coke and you might as well teeter right out again.

The menu offers about two-dozen drinks, plus a white, red and rose wine, all from France, all without labels. There’s also a Czech Craft Lager beer. The menu suggests asking for “hop atomization” if you prefer a pale ale, meaning a spritz of a distillate that will tweak the beer’s flavor profile. Wines can also be tweaked. The red wine is descibed as “Rich and fruity; Ask for spice distillate if you prefer a little extra depth.”

                                   

Though the pop-and-pour idea seems to have first percolated in London, it’s now a force in U.S. bars including Empellon Taqueria in New York City (photo, above, by Wall Street Journal) and Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon where many cocktails are first aged in whisky barrels to imbue them with the character of the wood, then bottled for convenience and consistent carbonation, and served the same week they are made.

One last word. Ice. Americans love ice in their drinks. Lots of ice. We tsk-tsk when European bartenders drop one measly cube in our vodka-tonics. We get exasperated when our request for “more ice” brings another measly cube.

But much of what Chetiyawardana said made sense to me. #1 Ice is not always consistent in terms of water source, shape, or condition. #2 Ice machines are not always as clean as they should be. #3 Ice dilutes the flavor of a drink.

That said, old habits die hard. Though I'm already longing for my next White Lyan negroni, for now,  Bartender, one Tanqueray and tonic, please. With lime. On the rocks.

Food Lovers' Crystal Ball -- The Fancy Food Show

What do single-barrel pickles, skillet bacon spread, and “Yellow-Snow Cupcakes” have in common? They were all on display, along with 80,000 other gourmet foods and beverages at the 38^th annual Winter Fancy Food Show staged recently by the National Association for the Specialty Food Trade (NASFT) in San Francisco’s Moscone Convention Center. For three days, some 1,300 exhibitors from more than 35 countries strutted their stuff in the hope that their products would be picked up by retail store buyers and become the hot nosh of 2013.

                                       

Leading the trend parade this year were chips made from everything but potatoes – falafel, black beans, kale and lentils (Plentils are terrific); botanical beverages such as Blood Orange Chili Juice from Wild Poppy Juice Company; mountains of blue cheese including Blue Heaven Blue Cheese Powder from Rogue Creamery; and boatloads of bananas as in Vosges Haut-Chocolat’s Wild Ophelia Peanut Butter & Banana Milk Chocolate Bar. Fancy coffees, teas (including tea “infusions” for cocktails), flavored waters and upscale, all-natural sodas like Bruce Cost’s sensational Ginger Ale continued the dominate the nation’s tastebuds. For a complete report on the food and beverage trends in this year’s show, check out the NASFT Website.

In the meantime, here's a taste of the delicious, decadent, unusual, trend-setting, tasteless, tacky, or just plain outrageous food and drink I discovered at this year’s Fancy Food Show.

HUMMUS Move over, chickpeas. Hummus gets an exciting new look and a gimme-more new flavor with three products from Eat Well Enjoy Life. I love the Sweet & Spicy Black Bean Hummus that’s topped with a daub of roasted corn, sweet pineapple and red pepper relish, and the Wasabi Edamame Hummus that is terrific tucked under smoked salmon on a cracker or toast. But my favorite is the Spicy Yellow Lentil Hummus with Sunflower Seeds & Apricot. I get out of bed a lot faster on the mornings I know this stuff is in the fridge.

                                        

UPSCALE KETCHUP and BBQ SAUCE I know it’s un-American to knock Heinz, but I gotta say, Sir Kensington’s Gourmet Scooping Ketchup is so good I may never go back. Made with real pear tomato puree (vs. Heinz’ tomato concentrate), agave, honey and raw brown sugar (vs. high fructose corn syrup), apple cider vinegar, coriander, allspice, lime juice and whole onions, Sir Kensington’s has a lip-smacking flavor and pleasing texture. (The ingredient list also notes green onions, Dijon mustard, chipotle peppers, cilantro and cayenne pepper.)

I also know better than to knock a man’s homemade BBQ sauce, but maybe, just maybe, you want to try the Baby Back Rib Sauce introduced at the show by Stonewall Kitchens of Maine?  With brown sugar to encourage “char,” molasses for smack, soy sauce for pucker, and orange juice concentrate for tang, it’s the whole package --- and your ribs and roasts and filets (and friends) will thank you.

GOOD THINGS COME IN SMALL PACKAGES In my book, the most promising trend in the gourmet food world is the proliferation of MINIS –--- Lilliputian sizes of traditional high-calorie cakes, cookies, candies and even savory items such as potato latkes.

                                     

***I flipped over the elegant Cakebaby line from Ticklebelly Desserts. These two-bite wonders are gorgeous, scrumptious, and satisfy cravings completely without breaking the calorie bank.  The Sea Salt Caramel Cakebaby (pictured here) is vanilla white cake with brown sugar caramel icing, caramel drizzle and French grey sea salt. There are also Southern Red Velvet  and Triple Chocolate Cakebabies.  Tickleberry desserts are available in some Ralphs, Kroger and Target stores.

***Big taste, small size also defines the success of Jer’s Squares, the bite-sized beauties from this award-winning chocolate-peanut-butter candy company. The Squares come in all the original flavors: Cara Mella Dark Chocolate; Milk Chocolate; Pretzo-Change-O; and my favorite, Toffee Break. Made by hand in small batches with no preservatives or fillers. Order on line and they go from chocolate vat to your table in a matter of days.

***And cocktail hour gets a lot more interesting with the coming of bite-sized latkes from Linda’s Gourmet Latkes. In addition to the traditional potato latke, the company offers onion latkes and sweet potato latkes. At the Show, they introduced the new black bean latkes and minced mushroom latkes. All are delicious topped with a tiny dollop of sour cream or crème fraiche and minced chives. The latkes are sold frozen and keep in the freezer for up to a year.

                                 

FLAVORED VINEGARS Family-owned and –operated Chapparal Gardens, on California’s Central Coast, does a lovely Winter Ambrosia vinegar that tastes like Thanksgiving dinner, with flavors of apples, pears, cinnamon, cardamom and cloves. I also liked their Pear-Ginger-Wasabi vinegar which is great in coleslaw and tuna salad.  More recipes on the Website.

FUNCTIONAL FOODS I gave the Kombucha Wonder Drink booth wide berth. I mean, really, the name kombucha isn’t particularly appealing, the concept of a “wonder drink” sounds like pure hocus-pocus, and  “fermented tea” isn’t exactly a yummy come-on in my book. But I gave it a try – the Asian Pear and Ginger Kombucha -- and found it quite palatable.

A mixture of freshly brewed organic teas infused with organic fruit concentrates, the drink is carbonated, and promises to “restore health, promote longevity and bestow mental clarity.” I’m not stocking up on the stuff based on those claims, but it IS a tasty alternative to sodas, and hey, those folks in the Himalayas (from whence this “ancient tradition” comes,) do seem to live to very old ages.

***And, if you’re looking for a novel excuse to indulge in chocolate chip cookies, look no further than the “functional cookies” of The Cookie Department. The Snap Back cookie promises to “detox” your hangover with its blend of ginger, cayenne and blackstrap molasses. The Chocolate Chip Nookie (no, that’s not a typo) promises to boost “vitality” via its superfood ingredient “maca.”  The Tough Cookie contains 10 grams of whey protein along with some peanut butter. The Awaken Baked contains the caffeine of one cup of coffee. Taking your medicine was never so much fun.

 

CHEESE The Spaniards won my heart in this category, with a voluptuously creamy blue cheese called Azul Penacorada from the Extramadura region of Spain. It’s moist and buttery, with ample blue-grey veining and a lovely mellow “blue” flavor. It’s part of The Rogers Collection, a small Maine importer of specialty foods, which also sells the Finca Pascualete Mini Torta, a creamy, nearly liquid cheese that’s hand-made with milk from the Merino sheep who graze on the wild flowers, natural grasses and wild herbs of Extramadura, giving their milk a distinctive flavor.

***From Guffanti, a well-known name in Italy’s Piedmont region, comes a three-year-aged Provolone that’s a little nutty, a little fruity, a little salty and intensely flavorful. According to Giovanni Guffanti, the cheese owes its flavor profile to the mixture of milk taken from cows in the evening and milk taken from cows in the morning. The company also features a gorgeous Gorgonzola Piccante aged 160 days instead of the usual 90. The result: exceptionally robust flavor, more blue marbling, and more aroma. Gorgonzola piccante is firmer than creamy gorgonzola dulce and can be aged substantially longer.

                                         

***From Holland comes the oddest of the bunch: Kokos Coconut Cheese, a Dutch, double-aged Gouda (above) that has coconut cream mixed in with cow’s milk before aging. The result is a soft, fruity cheese with a hint of coconut flavor and an insanely smooth mouthfeel. Apparently wineries LOVE the stuff because it pairs so well with all varieties of wine.

***I also discovered the scrumptious flavor and heart-warming story of Lillé, the Coulommiers-style cheese from Vermont Farmstead. Some years back, a group of neighbors near South Woodstock Vermont, grouped together to buy a failing family farm and its surrounding rural landscape. In short order, the farm turned into an award-wining cheese company producing a new generation of unique farmstead and artisanal cheeses. I fell in love with Lillé, the creamy, dreamy American answer to France’s opulent Coulommiers.  At present, Vermont Farmstead cheeses are available only in New England. Some can be purchased on-line. 

                                              
WHOLE GRAINS  I’ve been a big fan of Village Harvest grains --- rices, farro, quinoa, barley and more.  But I was really thrilled with the new cooked and frozen whole grains they introduced at the show. Now cooks short on time can sprinkle their choice of whole grain into a pot or microwave dish and have a hearty dish in a few seconds flat. The grains are frozen at -300 degrees to maintain their integrity, meaning you can pour out exactly the amount you want – no clumps.  Some of the blends are seasoned with herbs and spices, others flecked with things like dried cranberries and almonds.

CHOCOLATE The aisles of the Moscone were jammed with pure chocolate, liquid chocolate, chocolate-covered you-name-it, and even nonsensical chocolate – consider the Alabamoo Pies and Chocolate Thongs and Pasties (would I lie?) from Tom & Sally’s. 

But Blanxart was one of the true shining stars, with exquisite discs, bonbons, brics, bars and pralines that tasted as good as they looked. The company’s extraordinary treats include Williams Pear Mascarpone Truffles, Pine Nut Nougatine, Dulce de Leche Praline, dark chocolate discs with crystallized orange, and white chocolate bonbons with lemon that taste far better than any white chocolate has a right to taste. Created in Barcelona in 1954, the product line features handsome packaging with logos designed in conjunction with the Arts and Professions Museum of Barcelona.

                                      


SAY WHAT? This category is always my favorite, a compendium of the good, the bad, the tacky and the totally inedible.

***Real Beanz is an iced coffee beverage that promises to “get you through the day” and “enhance your lifestyle” by allowing you to “power up with energy-infused herbs or slow down with relaxing floral extracts.” I admit these are admirable goals. But after a few sips I realized the best way to enhance my lifestyle was to stay clear of this gross-tasting drink.  

***“Feeling your oats” is a lot more fun than drinking your oats, trust me. The Simpli Oat Shake comes in Chocolate, Tropical Fruit and Coffee flavors. It consists of “simply ground” oats, water, flavor powder and gums for texture. At the company’s booth I tasted the product made with plain water. It was plain disgusting. If you can come up with a good reason to drink oatmeal instead of eating it, knock yourself out, but DO at least opt for the coffee-flavored Oat Shake which is passably palatable. 

                                        

 

***BRINGING HOME THE BACON Of the scores of bacon-blessed products at the Show, one stood out: Skillet Bacon Spread is a blend of Nueske bacon cooked slowly with onions, balsamic vinegar, brown sugar and spices until it has the consistency of a marmalade or chutney. It’s great on turkey burgers, grilled cheese, baked potatoes and hash-browns, and English muffin fried egg sandwiches. 

***Egoiste coffee was introduced Hors’ a Moscow-based company that produces a half dozen types of coffee. Made at plants in Switzerland and Germany, Egoistr uses a new technology called In-Fi to produce instant coffee that contains natural ground roasted coffee in each soluble crystal. (The proportion, I was told, is 70 percent freeze-dried coffee, 30 percent freshly ground.) The claim is that the “instant” coffee retains it’s original aroma and taste far longer than regular instant coffee. I can’t attest to how it tasted a few days after it was opened, but the cup of coffee I tasted at the show was fragrant, smooth and satisfying.

***Yellow Snow Cupcakes. White cupcake. White frosting with a puddle of yellow frosting in the middle. For the life of me, I can’t figure out why anyone would want such a thing. But if you do, check out Brand Castle, the packaged mix line that also includes the “Brains! Cupcake Kit,” "NInjabread Cookie Mix" and an "Ugly Sweater Cookie Kit."

                                          
***AN IDEA WHOSE TIME SHOULD NEVER COME   “Stack Wine. Take It With You.” That’s what they call it. I call it the ultimate in laziness, and a boon to binge drinking, by the way. I mean, jeez, you don’t even have to refill your glass. Just grab an unopened one: “Unzip” the plastic packaging; “unsnap” one of the four heavy plastic tumblers that are filled with wine; and party on. 

Together the four glasses contain 750 ml, or a bottle of wine. The wines available are Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Merlot, but there’s not a peep on the labels or Website about where the wine comes from or what it might have going for it.  The hype says Stack Wines by-pass the hassle of a bottle, corkscrew and stemware. So does a quality “box” wine, such as Black Box Sauvignon Blanc. Or a screw-top bottle, if glass isn’t an issue. And plastic cups? Heard of them?  (Oh, did I mention the impact on landfill of a new “glass” each time you need a re-fill?)

 

***And then there was the product that totally stopped me in my tracks. Holy Crap is a gluten free cereal that is high-fiber, organic, salt- and sugar-free, made with chia seeds, buckwheat, hemp hearts and dried fruit. The British Columbia export bills itself as “the world’s most amazing breakfast cereal” and the company had a couple of effervescent cheerleaders in its booth talking up the virtues of the product.

I looked. I listened. I tasted. And, about all I could say was, well, "Holy Crap, that tastes awful." But don’t take my word for it. Check it out for yourself at HolyCrap.

                                        

The New York Times Agrees: "Patties" Rule!

It seems that while I was eating (and writing about) the laibchen in Austria and Northern Italy last week, a bunch of New York Times reporters were doing their own research on the homey, healthful, versatile "patty."

In this morning's Dining section, Julia Moskin's article "Summer's Vegetable Bounty: Coping with Raw Panic" included a terrific recipe for Leek-Vegetable Fritters with Lemon Cream. The recipe, from Deb Perelman's award-winning blog, Smitten Kitchen, uses a bit of flour and one egg to turn a bunch of cooked veggies into a handsome entree. (Photo by Melina Hammer for NYT.)

                                      

On another page of the section, writer David Tanis shared his favorite recipe for a fresh corn patty, held together with flour, chickpea flour and cornmeal. The pakora, India's answer to Austria's laibchen, is boldly seasoned with cumin, fennel and mustard seeds, and fresh minced peppers.  Tanis serves it with homemade mango-tamarind chutney. (Photo by Fred R. Conrad for NYT.)

                                      


Yet another appearance of the "patty" appeared wtih Eric Asimov's "Wines of the Times" column. The Veal Sliders with Wilted Cabbage recipe (adpated from Cafe Kristall in New York City) sounded so good to me that I plan to make it for our anniversary dinner tomorrow night.

These slightly more traditional "burgers" are made from ground veal, diced stale bread and minced onion sauteed in butter. They're served with buns and a caramelized cabbage-and-onion slaw perked up with  sour cream, Dijon mustard, fresh marjoram, and a splash of vinegar. Asimov suggests pairing them with a South African Chenin Blanc. But, given the hot temperatures suffocating the country, I'd say go with a chilled Rose or an icy beer.

Top Ten Tastes of 2011

I went. I saw. I tasted it all. These were my favorite discoveries at the Fancy Food Show, held last week at San Francisco’s Moscone Center.

POCO DOLCE Sesame Toffee Bittersweet Chocolate Tiles with Grey Sea Salt are divine. So’s the Burnt Caramel Toffee Tile. These are chocolates to savor slowly, with lots of oohing and aahing. I was also fascinated by the company’s new Bittersweet Bar flavored with California olive oil and grey sea salt. This is one to eat slowly, allowing it to melt on your tongue and the olive oil essence to linger 

Say cheese, as in CAPRICHOS DE LA PASTORA TORTA DE OVEJA, and get ready to smile. This unusual spreadable cheese from Spain is sensational. It’s called a torta because it looks like a little cake. Let it come to room temperature, lop off the top, grab a spoon, a bottle of wine and a couple of dear friends and get ready to dine. It will be available on-line at The Rogers Collection, but the price hasn’t been determined as I write this.

The folks at POWELL AND MAHONEY must have felt bad for all us aspiring bartenders who desperately need a bottle of SIMPLE SYRUP simple syrup to create the cocktails of our dreams.  (Sure, you can make it yourself, but it’s a messy operation.) The company introduced Simple Syrup in a neat and tidy bottle at the show, so it won’t be in stores for a month or so. Look for it in gourmet shops and upscale liquor emporiums. Let Happy Hour begin.

 

All hummus is not created equal. In fact, all hummus is not even made from the traditional chickpeas.  At last week’s show, Tryst Gourmet unveiled an EDAMAME HUMMUS that is scrumptious and really good for you too. Made from baby soy beans, it’s flecked with yellow peppers, black sesame and ginger and is smooth, creamy and totally addicting. The Eat Well Enjoy Life line also includes edamame hummus with minced red pepper and toasted sesame, as well as a terrific Spicy Yellow Lentil Hummus (with sunflower seeds and apricot) and Tuscan white bean hummus with roasted pine nuts and herbs. I love them all. Not yet available in supermarkets, but watch for the groovy green lids in the refrigerator case of your market in the next few months.

I’ve always been a fan of LUCINI extra virgin olive oil, which sits in front of a dozen or so olive oils on my pantry shelf. Nonetheless, I shied away from their new line of bottled vinaigrettes because I’m simply not a fan of bottled salad dressings. Wow, did I get a surprise when I tasted the new Delicate Cucumber & Shallot Artisan Vinaigrette. Its light, creamy texture and bright flavors are a perfect match for salads, cooked salmon, steamed veggies, cole slaw, and even couscous fluffed with minced chives. A bottle costs about $7; Lucini is widely available in Whole Foods and most upscale supermarkets.

The newest pasta sauce from perennial award-winner DAVE’S GOURMET is a supremely satisfying merger of cultures called Masala Marinara. Its sweet-tangy flavor will do the obvious wonders for a bowl of bucatini, but I’m looking forward to experimenting with lasagna, lamb stew, chicken cacciatore and even pizza. A 25-ounce jar retails for $6 to $8; available in many upscale markets.

NUVOLA DE PECORA is a semi-soft sheep’s milk cheese from Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region. The square, soft-rind cheese, which translates poetically as sheep clouds, has a bone-white interior and an awesome velvety texture. There’s a hint of sweetness playing games with the characteristic sheep’s milk tang. It’s distributed by Forever Cheese in Long Island City.

Gluten-free items continue to be big news. I was blown away by Stonewall Kitchen’s rich, satisfying GLUTEN-FREE-BROWNIE-MIX. (There’s also a gluten-free vanilla cupcake mix that I didn’t try.) I was also enchanted with the coastal Maine company’s Cinnamon Sugar Doughnut Mix. The doughnuts are light and fluffy, with a heavily dusted, lip-smacking exterior.  They’re baked, not fried so that makes them guilt-free in my book. They’re also easy to whip up (with egg, butter and milk) using the molded mini donut pan that’s sold with the mix. (A package of mix is $8.95; the pan is $14.95.) 

LAVENDER SHORTBREAD schmeared with mascarpone….be still my heart. This was my favorite cookie from two-year-old, Napa-based Botanical Bakery which uses premium ingredients from Strauss Family Creamery and calls the cookies “Our take on butter, flour and sugar.” The Ginger Squared and Cardamom shortbreads are yummy too. A 3.5-ounce bag of bite-sized Shorties costs about $6.

Ever since the MAYA KAIMAL line of Indian simmer sauces was introduced in 2003, these savory sauces have made my Fancy Food Show Ten Best list every year. Originally available only in the refrigerated cases of the supermarket, the sauces are now available in shelf-stable glass jars, with a two-year shelf life. The line includes about a half dozen types of sauce, including Kashmiri Curry, Vindaloo and Madras Curry, but my absolute favorite continues to be the Tikka Masala Simmer Sauce with its cinnamon, cardamom and clove notes and perky tomato-ginger flavor. The sauces are available in upscale supermarkets; a 15-ounce container is about $8.

SWEET-RIOT calls itself an alternative to a chocolate bar. I see it more as an alternative to pigging out. This clever  product consists of the tiny nibs from the cacao bean, roasted and cloaked in three intensities of dark chocolate (50-, 65-or 70 percent). Just two or three nibs give a blast of flavor and a pleasing tickle to the tongue. Only 1 or 2 calories per bite, 140 in the whole tin. About $5 per tin.

 

Fancy That! What's New at Annual Gourmet Food Show

I HAVE SEEN THE FUTURE….and it is full of  blue cheese, bacon jam and BeBop Biscotti,  new-age hummus and seaweed snacks, herb-flavored water, teas that promise emotional well-being, and a veritable tsunami of coffee (flavored, socially conscious, pedigreed and preciously packaged), ancient grains, gluten-free you-name-it, deep-dish pizza for dogs, chocolate truffles and the stinky ones too,  one heckuva lot of flavored popcorn, and cheese, cheese and more cheese.

Those were some of the highlights of last week’s Fancy Food Show, the 3-day smorgasbord of gourmet food and beverage that’s held every January at the Moscone Center in San Francisco. Staged by the National Association for the Specialty Food Trade and open only to the trade, this year’s show featured more than 80,000 gourmet food items (from more than 30 countries), all hoping to be discovered by retail store buyers and catapulted to fame as the hot nosh of 2011. 

Here's a sample of the most interesting, delicious, trend-setting, tasteless, or just plain outrageous food and drink I discovered.

SAY CHEESE

Cheese has always been a major player at the Fancy Food Show, but this year there was more than ever. From Spain, an almost-liquid treasure (above) called Caprichos de la Pastora (see tomorrow’s post for a full description); from Montana, Mountina “Alpine” cheese with pleasing nutty flavor and smooth texture; from Italy, the voluptuous cow’s and sheep’s milk cheeses of Luigi Guffanti; from Rouzaire, a lovely Brie imbued with Grand Marnier that is sometimes available at Costco. Blue cheese was especially rampant, with hundreds of savory wheels including five from the family-run Willapa Hills farmstead operation in southwest Washington state; Crater Lake, Caveman and the new earthy, slightly funky, slightly sweet Flora Nelle from Rogue Creamery; Blue del Moncenisio; and Cashel Blue. There were also do-it-yourself kits for tasting (Artisanal Premium Cheese Co.) and mozzarella making (Roaring Brook Dairy.) 

CHOCOLATE

Show-goers (including manufactureres, importers, brokers and retail shop owners) couldn’t walk ten steps without bumping into a chocolate purveyor. There were fat truffles filled with envelope-pushing ganache flavors, slim bars, tiny pebbles, milk chocolate tool kits and bittersweet roulette wheels. There was chocolate dusted with coarse finishing salt or mated with caramel and toffee. There was chocolate with a schtick, such as Fearless chocolate which claims to be unroasted in order to preserve “natural nutrients, marvelous minerals and abundance antioxidants.”

The new truffle line from Fairytale Brownies, one of my favorite on-line purveyors of goodness, come in  three flavors -- pecan, espresso nib and toffee crunch – and feature intense flavor, fabulous crunch and a cloak of 60% Caillebaut chocolate. My only gripe is that each truffle is really too big for one person at one time. Knipschildt, a boutique that touts its fresh cream, butter and fruit and wins prizes for its packaging, had a winner with its Caramel Sea Salt Truffle Box which features four types of salt.

There was a veritable TEA party going on at the Moscone Center, and not a politician in sight -- black tea, herbal tea, white tea, green tea and even “extremely green tea,” as the Tamayokucha tea from Two Leaves and A Bud is known.  We’re talking artsy-fartsy tea brewing systems; Steaz, a blend of tea and sparkling water that has an unpleasant aftertaste;  tea in cookies, cakes and chocolate truffles; tea for folks who want to relax, and tea for folks who want to get up and go, and Teamotions for folks who’d like such herbs as neem (“for clarity”) and ashwagandha (“for joy”) and schizandra berry (“for hope”) in their afternoon brew. Then there’s tea seed oil. Make that wild tea seed oil.  It was all news to me. And after hearing a few facts (it does have a very high, 485 degrees, smoking point) and tasting the stuff, I don’t see much reason to learn any more about it.

OLIVE OIL still occupies an important place on the shelf in today’s kitchens and there were hundreds at last week’s show.  I was intrigued by the new three-liter box of Italian extra virgin olive oil from Lucini, one of my favorite sources for EVOO and pasta sauces. The box features an airtight seal and is guaranteed fresh for 12 months after opening. It costs $50 for the regular EVOO; $60 for the organic. Plus, it’s easier, neater and creates less trash. Though there’s plenty of olive oil coming from Spain, Tunisia, Greece and other countries, in my opinion the best still comes from Italy. Some of my other favorites are "Crudo" from Puglia, Regaleali and Tenuta di Capezzana; most available at Market Hall Foods and Olio2Go.

HONEY

The world's bees have been keeping busy. Puremiel organic raw honey is harvested  from bees in southerm Spain's Grazalema and Alcornocales natural parks by fifth-generation beekeepers. The packaging is especially attractive; the honeys are delicious.  Ditto the Abella honeys from Galicia in northwestern Spain. I also liked Breitsamer Tangy Forest Honey from Germany.

CONVENIENCE FOODS, such as international simmer sauces in jars and tubes, and GoGo Squeeze, a100% fruit squeezable apple sauce, grow increasingly sophisticated. And there’s increasing evidence that people want to eat healthier…..or at least say they want to. I found seaweed snacks called SeaSnax; chocolate bars with resveratrol, the chemical found in red wine (supposedly one bar has the resveratrol  of more than 50 glasses of red wine); alternative chips such as Flamous Falafel Chips, Beanitos Bean & Chipotle chips, and Turbana Plantain Chips (all of them delicious); Twice-Baked Potato Stix with Salt and Cracked Pepper; and lots of Blue Agave syrup as a substitute for sugar.

As always, LUXURY FOODS made quite a splash. Among them: jars of fragrant Italian black truffles from Savini Tartufi (these and a small tube of truffle paste will be available in coming weeks) and the fragile, flaky wisps of edible gold from Giusto Manetti that can garnish a dark chocolate mousse, risotto or even sushi; float in an Aperol Prosecco cocktail; or dress the rim of a Champagne glass with élan. Buy on-line at Market Hall Foods.

ALL THINGS ITALIAN

Our love affair with the sunny cuisine of Italy continues and there were scores of manufacturers and importers at the show ready to stoke the fire. I loved the heavenly Blood Orange Marmalade, from Marchesi di San Guiliano, that can be schmeared on breakfast toast, grilled chicken and swordfish alike, or folded into sauteed shredded Brussels sprouts or fluffy couscous. A jar costs about $13 and is available on-line at Market Hall Foods.

I also loved the lovely, coarsely ground polenta with a rosy-hued husk from Italy’s Trentino region that’s called Farina della Valsugana. It’s a winter-night wonder when cooked with a bit of butter, taleggio cheese and fresh sage folded in. (Not in markets yet.) Want to recreate the farro dishes that are all the rage in restaurants these days? Manicaretti is your go-to source for Rustichella d”Abruzzo Farro. Considered the “father of modern wheat,”  farro is a hearty grain with a pleasant nutty flavor. You can buy it in ground form and use it as you would polenta, or buy it made into pasta shapes such as orzo and bucatini, or as a whole grain for a trendy “risotto.” 

As at every Fancy Food Show, there were a few duds.  Chocolate-dipped Jelly Belly Jelly Beans seems to me to be an idea whose time never needed to come. Isn’t there enough already going on, flavor-wise, in a Chili Mango, Mixed Berry Smoothie or Strawberry Daiquiri jelly bean? Flavored cheese from Sartori Reserve? C’mon, guys. Raspberry-flavored cheese? Merlot? Chardonnay? Espresso?? How about a little respect for the poor cows trying their best to make cheese taste like cheese.

And Oregon White Truffle Oil. Let’s face it. We can’t all look like Brangelina. We can’t all play the piano like Lang Lang. And we can’t all harvest fabulous black and white truffles in our forests. So, get over it, America. Admit that there are SOME things that the French and Italians do better. The Oregon White Truffle oil I tasted, -- "the first all-natural truffle oil ever produced in the United States" -- had an odd, not-all-that-pleasant flavor.

Lastly, there’s a category I call “novelties” for lack of a better word.

Haggis potato chips, anyone? Didn’t think so. One of the six flavors offered by Scottish company Mackies  (another flavor is Aberdeen Angus Beef), the Haggis & Cracked Black Pepper chips come with an asterisk of sorts. According to press releases – “Unlike other flavors in the line which contain the actual ingredients that are in their name, the haggis flavor has been replicated with spices, explains Kristen Mackie, creator of the crisps.” Dang, I was looking forward to a potato chip imbued with sheep’s hearts, livers and lungs.

And, lastly, is it just me that finds nothing cute or appetizing about hot sauces called  Blair’s Death Sauces and Snacks? The company (which admittedly has a very cool Website) introduced new packaging at the show. Its three hottest sauces -- Sudden Death, Mega Death and Ultra Death – now come in coffins.

Check back tomorrow for my list of the TEN BEST foods I found at this year's show.

 

Remembrance of Macaroons Past

Dear Santa,

I was tickled pink to discover in last weekend’s Wall Street Journal the existence of the Ladurée Caramel Candle. As all my family, friends and blog followers know from my post, “The Magnificent Macaron,” I adore those precious little cookies that make Monsieur Proust’s madeleines seem downright boring.

According to the WSJ article, the elegant candle in a graceful pastel pot smells of “hot melted caramel,  plenty of salt, and butter, tempered by an elegant bouquet of flowers.”

What’s not to love about that?

The article says you can get one for $56 at Colette, on the chi-chi Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris. But for your shopping convenience, I suggest you simply swing by the Sue Fisher King Boutique in San Francisco, where the candle goes for $75. (Also available on-line, if you’re feeling high-tech and trendy.)

In perusing the boutique’s Web site, I see that Ladurée candles also come in Chocolat-Orange, Café Crème, and Marron Glacé, three of the other macaron flavors that wowed me when I visited the bakery in September.

Yeah,  75 bucks is a lot of money for a bunch of wax with a limited lifespan. But I have been pretty good this year. And it’s a heck of a lot cheaper than another plane ticket to Paris.

 

 

 

 

Taking Turkey Day Outdoors

Just a few weeks 'til Turkey Day. And the November issue of Coastal Living magazine wants to help you put a memorable feast on the table.

Out now on newsstands, the magazine’s feature entitled “Let’s Take Thanksgiving Outside” includes the recipes for our family’s traditional dinner, as well as a “how-to” for cooking the big bird on a backyard grill and strategies for enjoying the leftovers.

My editor at Coastal Living asked me to cast the menu as an outdoorsy feast. With that in mind, I did the rotisserie turkey, punched up with orange zest and minced garlic, and a totally irresistible Grilled Smoked Salmon Pizza. For the photo shoot, guests gathered around the grill with aperitifs while we tossed an irregular oblong slab of Trader Joe’s fresh pizza dough on the grill. Two minutes later it was a picture-perfect charred, bubbled platform for the toppings:  mascarpone cheese, thinly sliced smoked salmon, capers and snipped fresh chives.

San Diego’s mild weather makes it easy to work the backyard grill into the act. But a rotisserie turkey is also do-able in less clement climes. My husband cooks our Christmas turkey on the outdoor grill at our Colorado vacation home every year. He wears a ski jacket to do the basting, positions the grill under the garage overhang so it doesn’t get snowed on, and hopes mightily that all the local bears have gone to sleep for the winter.

Spit roasting ensures the bird will be golden brown and crispy-skinned all over.  For extra succulence, gently slip pea-size pieces of frozen butter under the skin of the turkey before placing it on the spit. Take care not to break the skin. 

The Grilled Smoked Salmon Pizza, which I developed for the article, will now be a permanent part of our Turkey Day menu. I like it best with peppered smoked salmon slices, which I buy at Costco. The recipe is below.

The November issue will be on newsstands for another couple weeks. You can also find most of the recipes at CoastalLiving.com.

Photos are by the talented photographer, David Tsay. Check out his Web site.

GRILLED SMOKED SALMON PIZZA

From “Coastal Living magazine”

1  pound  prepared pizza dough, at room temperature

All-purpose flour

 Extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/2 cups  mascarpone cheese, stirred until smooth

3/4 pound  thinly sliced smoked salmon, preferably “peppered”

3  tablespoons capers, drained

1/4 cup fresh chives

Lemon wedges

Cut dough into 2 pieces, and dust lightly with flour. Roll out one piece on a well-floured surface, forming a circle about 6 or 7 inches in diameter. (Leave crust a bit thicker around the edges to form a rim.) Place on a piece of lightly oiled parchment paper for easy transfer to the grill. Repeat with second round of dough.

Brush one side of each dough round with olive oil, and place, oil sides down, on well-oiled grill grate. Close lid, and grill 1 to 2 minutes or until bottom sides are browned and crisp. (Check dough after 1 minute.) Lightly brush tops of dough with oil, and turn. Close lid, and grill about 1 to 1 1/2 minutes, checking after about 45 seconds. Remove dough to a cookie sheet or large flat serving platter.

Spread grilled dough pieces evenly with mascarpone cheese. Top with smoked salmon, and sprinkle with capers and fresh chives. (Pizzas can be served immediately or placed on turned-off grill for 30 to 45 seconds, with lid closed, to warm toppings.) Cut into thin wedges or bite-sized pieces and serve with lemon wedges.

 

Farewell, First-Born....Hello, Fun

This week's cover story in The New York Times, “Students, Welcome to College – Parents, Go Home” brought back vivid memories of saying good-bye to our two sons when we deposited them at their colleges as Freshmen.

But, unlike the picture painted in Trip Gabriel’s engaging story, ours was not a scene of hand-wringing, hanging around, and hysteria. Rather, my husband’s and my memories of those days are of Champagne in front of the fireplace in a cozy room at The White Barn Inn; a luscious, over-the-top dinner at The Inn at Little Washington; biking along the deserted coast of Kennebunkport, Maine; and hiking a woodsy trail in the Appalachians.

Don’t get me wrong. We were devastated that Nicholas and Ben would no longer be involved in in our daily lives. But, we were determined not to be part of the boo-hooing throngs of parents who, quite literally in some cases, were raining on their kids’ “parades.” Instead, I devised a plan for dodging all the drama. And I wrote about it for the Travel sections of The San Diego Union-Tribune and The Oregonian:

 

"The strategy is simple: Plan a romantic getaway that begins with the last wave goodbye."

Sure there was a little sniffle as we walked away from each son, but there was also great excitement about the coming adventure. My husband and I got to discover the quintessential Yankee town of Kennebunkport where we road bikes, walked empty beaches and were dazzled by the candlelight setting (in a restored 19^th century barn) and  sensational food of Chef Jonathan Cartwright at The White Barn Inn.

With son #2, we settled into a luxurious room at The Inn at Little Washington in Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley. We hiked Old Rag Mountain and were pampered by the Inn’s chef/co-owner Patrick O’Connell. Sweet corn risotto with frizzled leeks; a Lilliputian, pistachio-crusted lamb chop;  and a luscious cobbler with local peaches made it totally apparent why the James Beard Society named O’Connell “Outstanding American Chef” in 2001. (Photo of O'Connell's cobbler trio from a cool Web site called Dinner Cakes: Culinary Adventures for Everyday People.)

 

Click here to see the entire article about these strategic “adventures” on the San Diego Union-Tribune’s Web site.