OK, so it’s the beginning of March already. Who says a “Best of the Year” list has to hit the blogosphere in January?
I figure it’s never to late to share the yummiest discoveries of a year, a day or a decade. So, starting with this post, for the next week or so, I’ll dish up all that was sweet, savory and sensational in 2011. Maybe you’ll discover a restaurant, a chef, a cocktail, a dessert that will make your Best of 2012 list.
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APPETIZING APPETIZERS of 2011
Call them what you will --- appetizers, tapas, nibbles, bar snacks, or small plates --- the best of the genre was at Coppa in Boston’s South End. This hip, and wildly popular, café by two of Boston’s most celebrated chefs, Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette, packs ‘em into a long, spare room with no “décor” to speak of, no pretense, just plenty of personality and pizzazz. There’s usually a wait at the crowded bar before you’re shoehorned into a tiny table, but the procession of stellar share-ables that comes next makes it all worthwhile.
I loved the white bean bruschetta with sage and EVOO from Olio de Melli; and the fried risotto balls stuffed with fontina. I was crazy about the springy meatballs made of short-ribs, pork belly and the trimmings from house-cured lardo; and the homemade orecchiette pasta with lamb, fava beans, mint and pecorino. (The menu changes often. This photo, by Keller & Keller for Boston magazine, shows rigatoni with goat ragu, mushrooms and green olives.)
I flipped over the wood-fired Pepe Bianco, a white clam pizza with bacon and Vidalia onion. Heck, even the “Sides” were irresistible. Marinated cauliflower was doused with shallots, thyme, Ricotta Salata and coarse salt; and roasted sweet peppers were pepped up with Turkish spices, feta and aged balsamic vinegar.
Oh yeah, did I mention that there’s also an impressive selection of “salumi,” including rabbit “porchetta" and duck prosciutto? Or a half-dozen cheeses from Formaggio that’ll knock your socks off? Or a couple of “Family Style” dishes such as roasted and confit chicken with sunchokes and kale.
Coppa’s wine list partners the food with panache. It’s a fascinating line-up of lesser-known Italian treats, with many by the glass and a few by the carafe. A good friend and I spent three blissful hours at Coppa, doing our very best to eat everything on the menu. I guess I’m glad we failed…..that leaves plenty for me to enjoy next time.
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I also loved the “small plate” approach at Zahav, a "moderan Israeli restaurant" in Philadelphia’s Society Hill neighborhood. Chef Michael Solomonov updates classic Middle Eastern/Israeli dishes and serves them in a stylish, high-energy bistro where people make a sport out of sharing as many menu items as possible.
That’s not a tough task when you’re talking about yummy ground duck kebabs with foie gras and pistachios; sizzling chicken shashlik with figs, almonds and carrot pilaf; out-of-this-world fried cauliflower with chives, dill, mint and garlic; and several types of lip-smacking hummus, served with laffa, a soft, hot-from-the-wood-burning-oven flatbread that was, in and of itself, a reason for me to go back to Zahav, soon.
(The fried cauliflower photo is from FussingWithForks.com, a classy Website by “part-time foodie, full-time photographer” Jason Varney.)
Desserts are also out of this world. But more about that in my post about 2011's Best Desserts.
Zahav’s prices are remarkably reasonable --- many plates cost about $6. The cocktail list is impressive; the wine list includes treats from boutique Israeli wineries.
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