In the aftermath of 9/11 and the 2008 economic collapse, restaurateurs and restaurant-goers alike have been pretty much fixated on homey, rustic, bistro, farmhouse, low-key. And I’m no exception.
But I was thrilled to discover last spring that haute cuisine is alive and well and holding court at Ai Fiori in New York City’s luxury boutique hotel, the Setai FIfth Avenue.
From the first nibble of cod croquettes with truffled tartar sauce in the hotel’s chic Bar on Fifth, to the last lick of ethereal chocolate semifreddo in the graceful dining room, this was a dinner to remember and rave about.
The excitement started with lobster veloute, a shimmering potage with ocean-fresh flavor, and a delicate spray of shaved chestnuts and black truffles. The blue crab salad that followed was a sparkling mosaic of crab, avocado, grapefruit and fresh, fragrant tarragon, served with a crisp little farinata (a Ligurian chickpea cake usually cooked in a wood-fired oven) on the side. The two dishes artfully summed up Executive Chef Michael White’s strategy at Ai Fiori: Marry the best of French technique to the exuberance of the Italian palate, and get ready for one happy reception party.
The seduction continued with barely poached Wellfleet oysters set afloat in a gossamer beurre blanc speckled with cool cucumber and shiny sturgeon caviar. In terms of extravagance, that was a tough act to top, but along came the homemade agnolotti which did just that. The fragile bundles of braised veal and butternut squash were buried in a black truffle sauce that brilliantly straddled earthy and elegant.
Have you noticed a recurring theme here? White uses truffles like other chefs use salt and pepper. Which makes the price of dinner at Ai Fiori a pleasant surprise. The four-course dinner is $79, a hefty chunk of change, yes, but a bargain for food and service of this quality.
The menu also includes ravishing ravioli stuffed with ricotta and mascarpone cheeses in a red wine glaze; a rustic-regal braised beef cheek “daube” (a classic French stew); and a rack of lamb that outshines all other racks of lamb.
Served as individual chops, the lamb is wrapped in a cloak of ground breast meat and foie gras that’s sealed in caul fat, deco-ed with flattened parsley. It’s a majestic production, with amazing flavors and tongue-tickling textures, and I loved every bite. (Photo from Time Out New York magazine.)
There isn’t a lot to say about the décor at Ai Fiori. The colors are neutral, muted and not terribly memorable. But the tables are well-spaced, chairs are comfortable, and the second-floor views of Fifth Avenue are captivating. Service is friendly, and professional without being pompous.
Let the bucolic bistro trend rage. I know where I’ll be going for a now-and-then shot of sophistication, style and sensational food.
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