Kale. It’s everywhere. Kale slaw. Kale chips. Kale salad. One would think this rough, ruffly dark green cousin of chard just popped up out of the earth in 2012, so gaga are today’s chefs over it.
But kale can be a scary
thing in the wrong hands. It’s tough (Tuscan kale
has thinner leaves and is less tough than regular kale). It’s tough to cook
properly. And, it can be tough to eat. I need all five fingers to count the number of times
in 2012 that I’ve been served kale that could do double duty for a Brillo pad.
So I was apprehensive
when my son Nicholas ordered the Shaved Tuscan Kale last week when we dined at
Matyson BYOB in Center City Philadelphia.
Happily, that apprehension
quickly turned to awe.
Not only was this the best kale dish I’ve ever tasted, it was one of the best dishes of 2012, period. Matyson chef Ben Puchowitz starts with what he calls “really, really fresh” Tuscan kale from a nearby Lancaster, PA farm. The leaves are sliced very thin (a chiffonade) and tossed with roasted butternut squash, fluffy quinoa, pumpkin seeds, freshly grated parmesan cheese and a zesty lemon-oregano vinaigrette. Thanks to a last minute dusting of fresh, rubbed oregano, the dish smelled as good as it looked when it arrived at our table.
I was in awe of much of the food at Matyson, actually. I also loved the night’s special, a pan-roasted cod that was first marinated in miso paste and sugar so that it caramelized and formed a crackly crème brulee-like crust when cooked. The butter-soft fillet was paired with slightly chewy Shanghai-style noodles and set afloat in a divine broth sparked with ginger, garlic and several types of Korean chile paste.
“Spicy Beets” (above) was a lip-smacking wonder of a dish, though it sounded like a major culture clash with its (Greek) feta cheese, (French) lentils, (Korean) kimchi, pistachios and fresh mint. (Photo from CityEats.com.) Long Island duck breast was formed into elegant noisettes, sautéed and served with crispy little rice cakes and a garlicky soy-based sauce. Cured Verlasso salmon was whimsically paired with “tater tots,” whipped buttermilk and a sprinkling of caviar. Hangar steak was first-rate, each delicious slice made even better by the lobster mushrooms and kohlrabi puree sharing the plate. This is creative food, bursting with flavor, artfully presented, and all without taking itself too seriously.
Matyson is a pretty place, a long narrow room with nice lighting and attractive art on the walls. Since there’s not much space by the front door/desk, folks waiting for tables often do so on the sidewalk, where a charming bench sits under the front window. Rittenhouse Square is just up the street.
Matyson is a member of the BYOB brigade, a popular phenomenon in Philly where liquor licenses are reported to cost nearly $100,000. The bold letters are prominent in the logo, lest unsuspecting souls get settled at a table only to find they have to schlepp to the nearest state liquor store for a bottle of wine.
I'm not sure when I'll get back to Philly for another feast at Matyson BYOB. But I do know when I'll get to taste the fabulous kale again. I've added it to our menu for Thanksgiving dinner.