Matters of Taste

Meatball Madness --- Continued

On a trip to Philadelphia earlier this month, I encountered meatballs on almost every menu I perused. The splendid orbs pictured here were at Tinto, chef Jose Garces’ celebration of pintxos, the Basque version of tapas (pronounced Peen-choes).

                      


Coarsely ground and artfully spiced, sauced with piperade, (the spunky Basque menage-a-trois of onion, bell pepper and tomato), and snuggled into a clay pot along with one perfectly poached egg for dunking, this meatball experience was deliriously delicious.

So delicious, in fact, that I broke down and ordered a second dish after our group of four had polished off a procession of 11 plates including a satiny big-eye tuna tartare bocadillo with chorizo aioli; lamb chops with artichoke puree and Seville oranges; shrimp brochettes with espelette chile; and some of the crispiest patatas (shaped like marshmallows and served with tomato compote and blue cheese cream for dipping) that I’ve ever tasted.

Tinto, named for the colloquial reference to the red wines of Northern Spain, is one of the half-dozen Philadelphia eateries by Garces, who won the James Beard Award for Best Chef Mid-Atlantic in 2009. His first restaurant, Amada, was opened in 2005. I  loved the “small plates” at that restaurant, too, especially the suckling pig bocadillo, and the Spanish flatbread with grilled shrimp, chorizo and garbanzo bean puree. Both restaurants offer extensive lists of interesting, lesser-known wines, by glass and bottle.

On a Roll: Magnificent Meatballs in San Diego

The lowly meatball, once content to park itself atop a tangle of sauced spaghetti, continues to roll merrily along at the front of the trend parade.  Just this week, a new restaurant opens in Denver, Zeno’s Meatball Kitchen, with eight types of meatballs including beef fajitas meatballs called  “Cojones,” “Blue Balls” with blue cheese and bacon, “Great Balls of Fire” made with chorizo and ranch slaw, and “Fowl Balls,” no explanation required.

But I’m happy to report that two of the best versions I’ve tasted in the last year are right here at home in San Diego.

                         

At The Fishery in Pacific Beach, chef Paul Arias hits the jackpot with his Spaghetti with Swordfish Meatballs (above). Cubes of impeccably fresh fish are loosely mixed with oregano, basil, garlic and parmesan cheese, with a bit of beaten egg and breadcrumbs to hold it all together. After a turn in a hot sauté pan, this hefty meatball has delicious little bits of char that contrast with the moist insides.  

Arias then stews the meatballs in a savory tomato sauce, adds them to hot spaghetti, and dusts the winning concoction with basil, roasted cherry tomatoes, grated lemon zest and toasted breadcrumbs. The aromas, tastes and textures add up to quintessential comfort food.

The Fishery, which opened its doors as a seafood restaurant-wholesaler in 1997, is well known and admired for the quality of its fish, and its progressive efforts to support healthy marine life and sustain local economies. That means, you won’t get a better piece of swordfish anywhere. And, you’ll only get Swordfish Meatballs at The Fishery when it’s the right season to fish the big whoppers.

It also means that Chef Arias has access to parts of the swordfish --- like the belly he uses for the meatballs --- that we mere mortals can’t buy. So, while I fully intend to experiment in my own kitchen with this yummy new discovery, I also plan to order my new fave at the restaurant every chance I get.

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There are lots of reasons to visit Brooklyn Girl Eatery, Mike and Victoria McGeath’s newest restaurant, in Mission Hills -- the luscious Chocolate Bourbon Bread Pudding and the juicy Williams Burger with blue cheese and cherry wood bacon among them. But it’s the Bacon Wrapped Vietnamese Meatballs that drove me mad last fall, and keep driving me back to the restaurant again and again.

                      


A combination of freshly ground shrimp and pork, the balls are smartly seasoned, light and airy. Each chunky orb is wrapped in a crackly bacon blanket and glossed with a lip-smacking sweet ginger glaze.  A trio is tucked into an artsy dish and topped with a vivid “Tiger Slaw” that seemed to me to involve cabbage, bell pepper, onion, carrot, celery leaves and ginger.

Listed in the “Street Starts” section of the menu, the Vietnamese Meatballs are designed to be shared as an appetizer. But, I’m warning you upfront: You want to be the pushiest person at your table, with the quickest fork, because everybody goes crazy over them.

                                      

They also go crazy over the whole Brooklyn Girl scene. The place is great looking, open and airy, with big-city style and a happy, high-energy crowd. The vast space is divided into a curvaceous bar area with creative lighting and assorted seating arrangements; an inviting dining area with floor-to-ceiling windows and dominant art on the walls; and a sunny corner café where you can watch bakers and cooks doing their thing. (Brooklyn Girl is open for brunch, lunch, dinner and late-night dining.)

Oh yes, the menu has plenty of delicious ways to continue after the meatballs, too, including a nice butter lettuce and bacon salad with fried capers; a crisp roasted duck with ginger and honey; and excellent pizzas from a wood-burning oven.

The Gastro-Adventure of 2012

Pairing an exciting physical adventure with a great meal is my idea of a good time. And, I didn’t have to go far to find my favorite gastro-adventure this year. No Swiss funiculars involved. No Andean peaks. No raging Canadian rivers.

                          

Instead, I simply hailed a cab in downtown San Francisco, hopped out 15 minutes later at the famous old Cliff House, and set out on the amazing California Coastal Trail. About ten miles in its entirety, the trail wends its way through forests and toney residential neighborhoods, along sheer cliffs, across sandy coves, and up and down steep dunes.

                           

It’s an extraordinary blend of natural landscapes and well-known man-made attractions such the Praesidio, Sutro baths, and Fort Point, a Civil War fort. Much of  this adventure can be called a “stroll,” but anyone looking for a workout won’t be disappointed by the steps running up and down the cliffs, and the 100-plus “stairs” carved into a sand-dune “wall” near Baker Beach. As an added attraction, the shimmering Golden Gate Bridge is almost never out of sight.

On a glorious, sunny autumn day, we walked from Cliff House, past Sutro Baths, darted in and out of the thick forest of Lincoln Park, strolled through the affluent enclave of Sea Cliff, peeking into gates to see the magical mansions set on the edge of the cliffs. We then dropped down to long, sandy China and Baker beaches and walked along the water’s edge, until we climbed back up again on those 100-plus sand “steps.”(Photo from EveryTrail.com which gives an excellent step-by-step guide to this hike.)

                                 

Continuing past the Praesidio, Golden Gate Bridge, Fort Point, Crissy Field, and the Marina Green Park, we finally turned into the residential streets of the Marina neighborhood and found our way to bustling Chestnut Street. Total walking time was about 2 ½ - 3 hours. It's hard to give an exact mileage, because there are many options along the way. Mapquest estimates six miles, several hiking guides say it's closer to 10 miles.

The “gastro” part of the adventure was equally exciting.

                      

Tacolicious was the pot of gold at the end of our ramble. This casual emporium of creative Mexican fare is wildly popular, with crowds clustered at the door and on the sidewalk pretty much any hour of the day. (There are also T-Lishes in the Mission district and Palo Alto.)  

Tacos are the main attraction – each consisting of two griddled tortillas, stuffed enthusiastically with unusual combos of super-fresh, (mostly) locally sourced ingredients.

I loved the fried local rock cod that’s paired with shredded cabbage and tangy cream sauce; the house-made chorizo sausage with succulent potato chunks; and the vegetarian butternut squash number that’s spiked with poblano peppers, red bell peppers, spicy pepitas, and slightly bitter greens. (The above photo, by Michael Macor for the San Francisco Chronicle, shows the asparagus, potato, mushroom and green garlic taco; traditional carnitas; beer-and-shot braised chicken; fried local rock cod.) 

Since we were feeling “fit” (and totally deserving!) after our rousing hike, we also ordered the zesty shot-and-a-beer braised chicken tacos which are miraculously tender, and the braised short rib tacos that can thank guakillo chiles for their spicy, tangy, slightly smoky flavor.  Each taco gets a “custom” dusting of onion, cilantro, cabbage, lettuce, tomato, cheese, or whatever other crunchy bit will add to the fun.

                                 

Though it bills itself as a “cocktail-driven restaurant,” with 120 tequilas begging to be sipped, Tacolicious also offers imaginative alcohol-free concoctions that are ideal lunch accompaniments. (The menu heading is “Drivers, Kids and Recovering Bartenders.”) I love the Mia (cranberry juice, sparkling lemonade and fruit salsa), the Moss (passion fruit, pineapple, and sparkling limeade), and the Silas (lemon, lime and mint). 

For folks not in the mood for tacos (really?), the menu also offers “snacks” that range from a creamy, dreamy guacamole and snappy ceviche with apple and orange bits, to the popular albacore tuna tostada with crispy leeks and chipotle mayo, and  the pork-beef meatballs done with roasted tomato-chipotle salsa and cotija cheese. Then there are the chips 'n salsa. Let's just say I feel sorry for all the people who haven’t burned up a bunch of calories before hitting Tacolicious. They must have to stop after just one basket of the warm, addicting tortilla chips (served with three sensational house-made sauces, hot, medium and mild).  I had to be dragged out of there before I could completely polish off our third basket.

 

                                        

Tacolicious in the Marina is a small place , one long, narrow room with a smattering of tables, an inviting copper-topped bar, and a constant cluster of happy people waiting for a place to sit. We were lucky enough to score one of the tiny tables in the sidewalk enclosure, giving us front-row-center seats to the exuberant party that is Chestnut Street.