A Rhone To Moan Over

When it comes to red wines, I’ve never been a particular fan of the “Rhone Rangers,” the American winemakers (and drinkers) fixated on the Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre blends that France’s Rhone Valley made famous.                                                                        

But after last night…I’m a convert.

The current object of my affections is Rolf Binder “Heinrich,” a 45% Shiraz, 35% Grenache, 20% Mataro blend from the Barossa Valley in Australia. It’s insanely fragrant, with a rich, in-your-nose jamminess that jumps out of the bottle the instant it’s opened. The color is jewel-like purple/red, the flavor is unabashed fruit, fresh-from-a-sunny-vineyard fruit, satisfying fruit.

Sure, there’s some oak. Some spice.  Some tannins. And the presence of a certain herbal quality thanks to the Mataro (also known as Mourvedre). So I guess you can call it balanced if you’re inclined to throw such words around.

Personally, I’d call it delicious and let it go at that.

The Heinrich is one of about 10 wines that the company makes. Heinrich is the name of the father of the current winemakers. The winery’s other offerings have names like Hubris, Heysen, Hovah and Hanische (a Shiraz that Robert Parker rated "Extraordinary"). All start with the letter “h.” The Rolf Binder Web site is interesting -- slightly funky, very family-oriented, quite informative.

I found the 2004 Heinrich at Costco a week ago. It costs somewhere in the $20 neighborhood. I found a couple other Rolf Binder wines on-line at Berkeley Wine and Wine Chateau. But neither site currently stocks the Heinrich.

I drank this lovely surprise with homemade salmon burgers, patted together using fresh wild Alaskan salmon, chopped scallions (the green part as well as the white), a bit of minced jalapeno (both red and green varieties), tons of chopped cilantro, some chopped Oso Sweet onion, salt and pepper.                                                       

Now, chopping up a piece of gorgeous wild Alaskan salmon may seem like a crazy extravagance, but, #1, my family got hooked on super-fresh fish burgers at Twisted Fish in Juneau, Alaska and figures all fish burgers have to be that good; and #2, the salmon tastes just as great when it’s in loosely-patted-together burger form and cooked on a hot indoor-grill.    

I'm quite sure that Rolf Binder isn't the only jammilicious Rhone-style wine out there. If you have one you’re partial to, I’d like to hear about it.

Comments

[Jon Erickson]

For Rhone varietals in CA you must look at Alban Vineyards from the Edna Valley. They produce Rhone varietals exclusively. Their Viognier (Condrieu) and "Reva" Syrah are among the best wines California has to offer.

[Maureen]

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll try them both soon. Last night I drank a Crozes-Hermitage, 1999 Les Launes. It was very good but not nearly as in-your-face jammy as the Rolf Binder.

Guess I'm just going to have to do a side-by-side tasting of Syrahs from Edna Valley, Australia and France.

Whoever said this blogging was easy!