Recently, I was a guest on SignOnRadio.com’s Gourmet Club with hosts Ron James and Robert Whitley. During the broadcast they asked me what I thought was the best fish taco in San Diego. I had a ready answer: Beaumont’s in La Jolla’s Bird Rock neighborhood.
Fish tacos have become the signature food of San Diego -- much as deep-dish pizza and Nathan’s franks are icons of Chicago and New York – thanks to a guy named Ralph Rubio who discovered the taste treat in San Felipe, Baja California while on college spring break in the early ‘80s.
In 1983, Rubio opened his first fish taco shop in San Diego, peddling the tacos of San Felipe on Mission Bay Drive. The traditional creation begins with a small, warm corn tortilla. The fish is white-fleshed and rather neutral tasting (such as cod or pollock). It’s beer-battered, deep-fried and topped with a scattering of shredded cabbage, salsa fresca and a creamy, mayo-based dressing. A wedge of lime is on the side. 
Over the years, the lowly fish taco has gone upscale in San Diego and has slowly spread across the country. The fish is now as likely to be grilled as deep-fried. The salsa may feature fresh mango, peaches, avocado or tomatillos. And the low-brow mayo sauce of San Felipe has given way to sophisticated crème fraiche toppings gussied up with jalapeno, cilantro, Thai red chile paste or the ubiquitous chipotle chile. (This photo is from food-and-travel site LosCabosRecipes.com.)
Last week I had dinner at Beaumont’s and marveled once again at the cleverness, freshness, tickly textures and downright delicious flavor of these tacos. There may be a place for “authentic” taquerias that revel in grease and funky beachside eateries that tout tacos made with deep-fried frozen fish. But I, for one, am awfully glad that institutions like Beaumont's have decided to take a good thing and make it better.
Beaumont’s takes fresh, local ingredients seriously. The “catch” changes daily; it might be mahi mahi, yellowtail, ono or seabass. It's simply grilled and served on wispy, paper-thin tortillas hot from the presses. (They’re so thin that the folded package may start to fall apart when you pick it up. Solution: Eat faster.)
The accompanying salsa fresca is spunky and plentiful. The two-color shredded cabbage is crunchy. The black beans are slow-cooked and tender. The jasmine rice is seasoned with cilantro and fresh lime. And the plop of cilantro crème fraiche in the middle of the plate? Sheer genius. (There's also some heavenly chile aioli on the side.)
It’s not often that San Diegans get to feel superior and smug about their local food specialties. Long live the fish taco.
Mmmm, yum, Beaumont's is now on my list! I enjoyed hearing your feedback on the San Diego food scene when you were on the Gourmet Club a couple weeks ago. I hope you take them up on the offer to be a more regular contributor!
Posted by: Melanie Lytle | April 15, 2008 at 03:55 PM
Thanks for the feedback. I'll be on the Gourmet Club again this week...talking about the new, highly caffeinated coffee wars!
Posted by: Maureen Clancy | April 17, 2008 at 01:15 PM
Maureen,
I love reading your blog, I am going to check on it daily from now on.
Thinking about great tacos, my favorite shrimp tacos in SD are at The Fishery in PB.
Posted by: Charlie O | July 21, 2008 at 01:47 PM