You gotta love the spunk, the self-confidence, the smart-aleck cleverness of a menu that bills Buffalo Chicken Wings as Free-Range Chicken Confit.
That’s Spur Gastropub for you. The barely-two-months old restaurant has won over the demanding foodies in Seattle’s hip Belltown neighborhood with its combo of creative ideas, right-on execution, comfy cosmopolitan décor and good value.
It was only after I had polished off my elegant chicken “confit” – tender, deep-fried nuggets of chicken in a puddle of blue cheese and crème fraiche sauce, that I “got” the joke. Like the French ducky classic, this poultry fell off the bone with the barest nudge. Like the wings that are a finger-lickin’ must with longneck beers and a football games, they were crusty-edged, a bit greasy, and paired with both celery and blue cheese.
Spur’s menu is brief – no more than a dozen items total. It’s also what my Seattle-ite son calls “course agnostic.” A description common to many of the newest eateries here, it means a menu that lists offerings in no specific order and with no suggestions on what to order as first, or second course, appetizer of dessert. You want a summer fruit tartlette with your martini? Go for it.
I Ioved the free-form salad of Chiogga beets, with pistachios and goat cheese under a canopy of baby arugula leaves. I enjoyed the robustly flavored bison burger with provolone and “Tasmanian peppercorns” that was served on a homemade bun and almost buried under a blizzard of fine shoestring potatoes.
But the stars of the evening – two items my son deemed “shockingly good” -- were a smoked salmon crostini, pictured here, that looked simple but dazzled with subtle sophistication; and an citrus olive oil ice cream that demonstrated “molecular gastronomy” at its best.
An inch-square chunk of salmon replaced the traditional slices. It was cooked “sous vide,” a trendy technique that cooks food under pressure very slowly, for a very long time; then lightly smoked. The thin crostini, swiped with mascarpone and bits of pickled shallots, allowed the salmon to shine.
The ice cream, shaped like a perfect egg, glistened. I slowly scooped off the outermost layer, releasing a bright citrusy aroma and filling my mouth with some of the smoothest, silkiest ice cream I’ve ever tasted. Tucked underneath the ivory egg were crumbles of freeze-dried olive oil. I’m not a big fan of the chemistry lab school of gastronomy but I was thrilled by the textural note and flavor that the mini olive oil icebergs added.
About the only culinary misstep I found at Spur was an overly acidic vinaigrette on the ruffly heirloom
lettuce salad. But that’s not going to keep me from going again soon to try the pork belly sliders with arugula and smoked orange marmalade on a brioche bun, or the slow-poached butterfish with English peas and morels.
Prices range from $6 to about $22, with most in the $12 area. Reservations are accepted only for parties of eight or more. But there’s a large and welcoming bar area where you can wait for one of the dozen or so tables, or for a space at the communal tables.
The décor is simply chic, with a vague “Western” theme. Black-and-white stills of the West – wild and not-so-wild – are projected on a large wall screen. The bar is bustling with people who appreciate the interesting cocktail menu that prides itself on spirits from microdistilleries.
Spur Gastropub is located at 113 Blanchard Street. It’s open daily. Call 206-728-6706 for more information or reservations. Spur’s Web site is beautiful but rather minimalist; however there’s a link to the Spur blog which is fun and interesting.
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