The Art of Wienerschnitzel

I’m convinced that at any waking hour, on any given day, in any given block in the city of Vienna, a thin, crusty, bubble-blistered Wienerschnitzel is being either prepped or polished off.

Translated into English as Viennese cutlet, Wienerschnitzel consists of a pounded-thin meat (usually veal, but sometimes pork or chicken), dipped in flour, egg wash and breadcrumbs, then very quickly fried in hot vegetable oil. (Continue reading to learn why this Schnitzel appears to be on a table instead of a plate!)

It’s the beloved dish of this capital city. Sure, Vienna is famed for coffee houses and Klimt, Sacher Torte and sashaying stallions. But, trust me, it’s the elegant slice of veal in a “coat” as glamorous as  Diana Ross’ “What Becomes a Legend Most” wrap that drives both residents and tourists crazy.

Wienerschnitzel is everywhere. Simple neighborhood Gasthause (guest-houses that may or may not have a few rooms for rent). Traditional wood-paneled “lodges” where  you’d swear Heidi was sitting across the room.  Sophisticated international boites.  Hip, trendy spots catering to the young and the beautiful. Even ethnic places that tout their Döner Kebabs (Turkish) and Dolmas (Greek).

Demel, one of the most famous pastry shops in the world, has a cutlet sharing the menu with its meticulously layered tortes floating on whipped cream clouds.

DO & CO, arguably the hippest eatery in town, offers Green Prawn Curry, Bouillabaisse and Moroccan lamb with couscous and mint yogurt.  But when we dined there with friends, a sophisticated pair currently living in Mainz, Germany, the husband perused the menu with glee and ordered what? Wienerschnitzel.

That same friend (who grew up in Vienna and still has a family apartment there) warned us not to miss the Wienerschnitzel at Figlmüller, a hundred-year-old-plus family operation with two eateries a stone’s throw from St. Stephan’s cathedral.

It was an unforgettable experience.

The tiny space is decorated as it was the day it opened in 1905. The crowd, sardined in at a few two-tops and a bunch of long wooden tables which people “share,” is enthusiastic and noisy. The bathrooms are down the dark alley, left turn into an even darker alcove, and accessible only with a key that needs to be inserted into what I figured was a hundred-year-old-plus lock.

No beer is offered (shocking in this land); only a few (very good) wines that are handpicked by the owner. Servers who have been doing this gig forever can be very business-like, borderline cranky. Luckily, ours was so impressed by the amount of food that I ordered, he became downright chatty (which is to say a dozen words instead of a few grunts).

 And the Schnitzel? Terrific. An enormous slab of paper-thin veal in a golden, still-bubbling mantle, it hung over the edge of the standard-sized plate underneath by a good two-inches all around. On top was a single wedge of lemon.

That’s how Austrians do Schnitzel. Plain and simple. All the better to appreciate each bite of tender meat and crunchy crumbs. Typically there’s a mixed salad or potato salad on the side that fans scoop onto the fork before plunging it into the Schnitzel.

At Figlmüller, the “mixed” salad was a mound of 12 types of  lettuce and prepared salads such as cucumber salad and potato salad.  It was delicious by itself and played its role as supporting actor to the Schnitzel admirably.

We didn’t feel much like dessert after the fry-fest so we left Figlmüller to walk through the Alt Stadt (Old Town).  A few blocks away we passed Zanoni & Zanoni, one of Vienna’s best gelato emporiums. A cone overflowing with Hazelnut and Nougat gelati accompanied us on the walk home.

Comments

[foodies4us]

Although I can feel myself getting fatter just reading this article, it sounds delicious. Have you ever indulged in the schnitzel at the David Hotel in Jerusalem? Incredible.

[Maureen]

I think you mean the American Colony Hotel in Jerusalem....and YES, that is an extraordinary Wienerschnitzel....it, too, overhangs the plate by a couple of inches...and it, too, is paper-thin and wonderfully crispy!

[Tim O'Brien]

Locke-Obers is one of my favorite restaurants in Boston. One of the oldest and one of the best. They serve it with a fried egg on top. Is that traditional?

[Maureen Clancy]

Actually, the Austrians plop a fried egg on a lot of things....one of my posts from a few weeks ago showed a pumpkin stew I made with a fried egg on top...but I have never seen Wienerschnitzel with an egg.
However, if Lock-Ober serves it that way, it MUST be good!

[Gary]

Many years ago, I was introduced to Weinerschnitzel with fried egg at a Restaurant in Philadelphia named the Schwartzwald (spelling?)Inn. The restaurant is no longer there but, to this day, I make my Schnitzel with fried egg.