Ask any newspaper Food Editor which deadline of the year they most dread and the chances are good they’ll say “Thanksgiving.” I mean, really, how many new takes on this turkey-and-overeating holiday can a journalist come up with?
There’s the basic how-to, with day-by-day, hour-by-hour directives.
There’s brining vs. non-brining.
Fresh vs. frozen.
Scintillating sidedishes.
Leftovers.
After that, we food writers start scratching our heads and wondering how a Wine Country Thanksgiving or a Southwestern Thanksgiving might play.
In 25 years of re-inventing the Thanksgiving feast for San Diego Union-Tribune readers, I discovered a bunch of fabulous recipes that have become regulars on our holiday table.
Here are three of the best:
(And here's a photo, from one of my favorite blogs Matt Bites, to whet your appetite.
BUTTERNUT SQUASH GRATIN
From Chef Bradley Ogden
Serves 6 to 8
3 cups butternut squash, peeled, seeded and sliced ¼-inch thick
1 medium onion, quartered and sliced 3/8-inch thick
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon fresh garlic, minced
2 bay leaves
3 sprigs fresh thyme
1/8 teaspoon ground mace (or nutmeg)
1 ½ cups heavy cream
½ cup half-and-half
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
2 teaspoons kosher salt
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Place a heavy-bottom skillet over medium heat and add the butter; heat until sizzling. Add the onions and caramelize, cooking for approximately 10 minutes and stirring often.
Season to taste with salt and pepper, then add the garlic at the end. Remove from heat.
Spread the cooked onions evenly in a 4-by-6-inch baking dish.
Place the squash in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and cover with the cream, half-and-half, bay leaves, thyme, mace, salt and pepper. Simmer until the squash is tender and has absorbed most of the cream. Remove from heat and discard the herb stems and bay leaves. Taste for seasoning.
Layer the squash in the baking dish on top of the onions. Top with Parmesan and dot with butter.
Brown lightly in a 425-degree oven for approximately 15 minutes. Serve immediately.
YAM-PEAR PUREE
From “Good Food” magazine
Serves 8
4 pounds yams (or sweet potatoes)
½ lemon
4 firm, ripe medium pears, pared, halved and cored
4 medium tangerines (about 1 pound), juiced
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
½ cup (packed) light brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground ginger
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest for garnish
Cook potatoes in a large pot of boiling water until tender when pierced with a fork, about 45 minutes. Drain well.
Squeeze juice from lemon half into a medium saucepan of water. Add pears and cooked over medium-high heat until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain well.
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Process half the potatoes, pears, tangerine juice, butter, sugar and ginger in a food processor or blender until smooth. Transfer puree to 9-by-15-inch baking dish and repeat with remaining ingredients. Stir purees to blend, season with salt and pepper to taste, and smooth top with spatula.
Bake until heated through, about 25 minutes. Garnish with lemon zest and serve hot.
WORLD’S BEST CRANBERRY RELISH
About 2 cups
1 bag (12 ounces) fresh cranberries
½ cup water
1 cup sugar
1 cup toasted walnuts, crushed slightly
¾ cup orange marmalade
Juice of 1 lemon
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Rinse cranberries, picking out any spoiled ones. Place cranberries in deep 2-quart baking dish with lid. Add water and sugar. Cover with foil and place lid firmly on top.
Bake for one hour, stirring lightly after 30 minutes.
Remove from oven. Add marmalade, lemon juice and walnuts.
Cool and refrigerate until ready to serve.
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