OK. So what do we know about Barack Obama now that he’s been our President for a whole week? Sure, sure. He wants to close Gitmo;; stimulate the economy; and hang on to his beloved Blackberry. But most important, from the perspective of this blog, we now know that he “doesn’t eat beets.”
Clearly this guy hasn’t been dining in the right places…contemporary American eateries where cooks celebrate local, seasonal foods and add their touches of creativity to ubiquitous and low-cost ingredients like, say, beets.
If Obama could just get a taste of the colorful, comforting Penne with Gorgonzola, Beets and Toasted Walnuts that’s one of my favorites at New York City’s Union Square Café, he’d probably re-think this silliness. And if he’d be willing to try chef Jody Adams’ sophisticated yet satisfying Beet and Spinach Salad, then maybe, just maybe, he’d earn the title “open-minded” that’s being applied to him in the press.
Jody’s restaurant is Rialto (between the Charles River and Harvard Square in Cambridge, MA) and her cookbook “In the Hands of a Chef” is one of the all-time greats. I featured it -- one of the best I discovered in 25-plus years as Food Editor and Columnist -- in my farewell column in the Union-Tribune last year. It’s available at Amazon.com.
“The Union Square Café Cookbook” by restaurateur extraordinaire Danny Meyer and Café chef Michael Romano, was also on the “Thirteen Treasured Cookbooks” list. It’s also available at Amazon.com.
PENNE WITH GORGONZOLA, BEETS and TOASTED WALNUTS
2 medium beets (about 1 pound), scrubbed
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 ½ cups sliced red onion
1 cup white wine
2 cups heavy cream
¼ pound Gorgonzola, crumbled
1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground white pepper
¾ pound penne
¾ cup toasted walnuts
2 tablespoons finely grated Pecorino Romano
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Trim the tops and root ends of the beets (save the green leaves if they are fresh and cook them like spinach). Cook the beets, unpeeled, in lightly salted water until they are easily pierced by a paring knife, about 45 minutes. Cool, peel away the loosened skin, and cut into strips as long as the penne and ¼ inch thick. Reserve.
Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a saucepan or skillet large enough to hold all the cooked pasta. Cook the garlic and onions to soften but not color, 5 to 7 minutes. Pour the wine into the pan and raise the heat. Reduce the wine until syrupy.
Stir in the heavy cream, lower to a simmer, and reduce the sauce until it very lightly coats the back of a spoon. Strain over a bowl, pressing the onions and garlic with a ladle. Return the straine\d sauce to the sauce pan and bring back to a simmer. Reduce the heat and slowly whisk in the Gorgonzola until it is completely melted. Season with ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper and set aside.
Bring 4 quarts of water to a boil and add 1 tablespoon salt. Cook the pasta until al dente and drain. Return the sauce to a simmer over a medium flame and add the pasta, stirring until coated. Toss in the beets and the walnuts, mixing lightly just until the sauce turns pink. Transfer the pasta to a warm bowl, sprinkle with the Pecorino and parsley and serve.
BEET AND SPINACH SALAD WITH GOAT CHEESE AND GRILLED FRESH FIGS
4 small beets, washed
2 orange quarters
Kosher salt
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon crushed toasted anise seeds
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon minced shallots
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
8 fresh figs, cut lengthwise in half
3 cups lightly packed baby spinach leaves
¼ pound fresh goat cheese
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed
Put the beets in a saucepan large enough to accommodate them in a single layer. Squeeze the juice from the orange quarters into the pan. Add the rinds and enough water to cover the beets by an inch. Season with salt, cover and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook until the beets are tender, about 45 minutes. Allow the beets to cool in the cooking liquid.
Drain the beets, then remove the skins by rubbing them with an old kitchen towel. Cut each beet into 8 wedges. Place the wedges in a large bowl and toss with the orange zest and 1 tablespoon of the balsamic vinegar. Whisk together the anise seeds, mustard and shallots with the remaining 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar in a small bowl. Add 1/2 cup of the olive oil in a thin steady stream, whisking constantly, until the vinaigrette is smooth and completely blended. Season with salt and pepper.
Preheat a grill pan over high heat. Brush the grill pan with 1 teaspoon of olive oil. Toss the figs with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Grill figs cut side down until browned and tender, about a minute. Remove from the heat and toss with 1 tablepoon of the vinaigrette.
Add the spinach and the remaining vinaigrette to the bowl with the beets. Toss well. Then arrange on four plates. Crumble the goat cheese over the beets, garnish with the grilled figs and capers and serve.
Maureen,
I am so glad you connected me with beets and Obama. I wholeheartedly agree...yes we can get the President to eat beets.
See you soon in Rialto.
xox Jody
Posted by: jody adams | January 28, 2009 at 11:44 AM