Carl Schroeder, the genius behind Market in Del Mar and the new Bankers Hill Bar & Restaurant in San Diego, is loved and respected for many things: Cabernet-braised short ribs with sweet onion-potato puree; duck confit; blue cheese soufflé; and roasted king salmon with cauliflower gratin among them. But it’s his beet salad with goat cheese – first introduced at Arterra in 2002 -- that folk seem to fuss over the most.
And now it seems that Schroeder has done the impossible: Made it better.
Last week I enjoyed a terrific dinner at Bankers Hill. Kicking it off was the Roasted Beet & Fuji Apple Salad, an elegant assembly of red and yellow beets, wide, tissue-thin shavings of apple, arugula, goat cheese, candied almonds and creamy mustard dressing. Since I’m not normally crazy about fruit being slipped into a salad --- I especially dislike interloping berries --- I was pleasantly surprised to discover the flavor and texture boost provided by the sweet, crisp apple.
It seemed to me that the chef cored the apple, left the skin on, then ran the whole apple over a razor-sharp mandoline. The graceful ribbons tickled the tongue and looked beautiful atop the greens…if Christo ever decided to get into food, this is how it might look!
Chef Schroeder’s recipe follows. He, of course, roasts the beets and candies the almonds himself. However, to streamline the process, I suggest buying pre-cooked, cryovac-packaged beets (available at Trader Joe’s and other markets) and packaged candied almonds or even pecans or hazelnuts. Most important of all, use a good mandoline to get the apple slices paper-thin.
BANKERS HILL BEET SALAD
Serves 6
2 large yellow beets, roasted and sliced into rounds
2 bunches baby red beets, roasted and cut into quarters
6 oz baby arugula
1 large Fuji apple, shaved
1/2 cup candied almonds
6 oz. fresh goat cheese
1/4 cup of your favorite vinaigrette
Salt and pepper to taste
Honey Mustard Dressing, for drizzling
Dress the yellow and red beets separately in vinaigrette. Season with salt
and pepper. Place 2 slices of yellow beet in the center of each plate. In
a separate bowl, toss together the arugula, shaved apples, goat cheese and
candied almonds with vinaigrette and salt and pepper to taste. Top each
plate of yellow beets with a small handful of the salad. Place the red
beets around the outside. Drizzle with honey mustard dressing.
HONEY MUSTARD DRESSING
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/2 sour cream
1/4 cup buttermilk
2 tablespoons whole grain mustard
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons cider Vinegar
1 teaspoon dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt
Pinch freshly ground pepper
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