A half-dozen or so stand-out wines flowed my way recently. Wines that were so delicious they sent me to Google to learn more about them and to wine shops to see if I could buy more.
Apparently the cognoscenti (and even Oprah!) have been fans of BLACKBIRD VINEYARDS since it squished its first grape in 2003. But I just discovered this powerhouse of Pomerol-style wines this week, and it was love at first sip.
Blackbird Vineyards ARISE 2008 is the blend of 42% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc that knocked my socks off. Called a Bordeaux-inspired blend (Merlot is the principle player in the region’s Pomerol wines), Arise is a luscious wine that pulls you in with its layered aromatics – cherry, plum, a hint of mint – then blows you away with rich black-fruit flavors and velvety mouthfeel. It’s an elegant wine, yet totally unintimidating.
For those who need to know more than the fact that it tastes great, I can tell you it’s aged in French oak barrels for 19 months; that the 2008 vintage was unusual because of weather conditions that created an exceptionally low yield, leading to great concentration of flavor in smaller berries; that 1570 cases were produced; and that winemaker Aaron Potts says the spice in this wine “reminds me of a Moroccan bazaar.” The 2008 Arise retails for about $50.
The Blackbird vineyard is in Napa’s prestigious Oak Knoll district. Guests are invited to taste and buy wines at Ma(i)sonry Napa Valley in Yountville. Limited quantities are available through an allocated mailing list direct from the winery and in fine restaurants and hotels.
The very clever Flock Box Collection contains a selection of six 50 ml. glass bottles containing samples of Blackbird’s Merlot and Cabernet Franc blends, such as Arriviste rosé, Arise, Paramour, Contrarian, and Illustration. The Flock Box costs about $48 through the winery.
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I also got lucky this week with an invitation to taste the wines of COTE BONNEVILLE, an award-winning operation in Washington’s Yakima Valley. Our neighbors were hosting Cote Bonneville owner, Dr. Hugh Shiels, for a happy hour mini tasting and so I trotted over to join them.
I was very impressed with the 2008 Chardonnay which has plenty of acidity balancing tropical fruit flavors (and a lovely whiff of vanilla); less excited about the Carriage Hill 2006 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (with a pinch of Cab Franc) which I applauded as smooth and well-balanced but found a little restrained for my tastes; and totally wowed by the Cote Bonneville DuBrul Vineyard 2005 with its come-hither aroma and supremely satisfying plum, black berry and cassis flavors.
Small wonder this Cab/Merlot wine scores consistently in the stratosphere with the “Wine” guys, that is Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator, who had this to say:
"Polished, focused, and juicy, with bright red fruit flavors that mingle appealingly with hints of chocolate and cherry as the finish lingers expressively on a refined frame. There's an elegance to this, and a depth that only becomes apparent with successive sips."
The Chardonnay and Carriage Hill retail for about $45; the Cote Bonneville DuBrul Vineyard 2005 is about $110. Available at Vinfolio.com.
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The captivating BOURGUEIL wine I tasted recently at Quinn’s in Seattle is now both a lovely memory and a big mystery. The wine list said simply LE PETIT BON DIEU BOURGUEIL. Our server suggested a glass to accompany the terrific Crispy Skin Chicken with Celeriac Anna & Glazed Baby root Vegetables that I had ordered. And I promptly fell in love with the wine’s lively fruit flavor, lovely floral aroma, impressive balance, and easy-going personality that also married well with our appetizers and my son’s Goat Confit with Foie Gras Barley entrée.
However, it seems unlikely I’m going to get another glass real soon because the folks at Quinn’s say it’s a special cuvee done for the Seattle importer A&B Imports, and a whole lot of Googling hasn’t turned up any retail leads. I have learned, however, that Bourgueil is a light, bright red wine with a peppery perfume that’s made of Cabernet Franc grapes in the Loire region of France. Typically, it’s the whites from the Loire Valley that get all the attention. But I, for one, am going to be on the lookout for this intriguing Cab Franc and its neighbor wine, Chinon. Most Bourgueils and Chinons retail in the $10 to $15 range.
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D. H. PORTH DUNDEE HILLS PINOT NOIR is another recent find that’s a real steal at 13 bucks a bottle. The second label of acclaimed Arterberry Maresh, it doesn’t have the extended barrel-aging of the winery’s more exalted Pinots (which retail for $35 to $75) but it has a light, lively flavor that’s immediately appealing and enough body and charm to hold our attention.
The wine hails from Oregon’s Willamette Valley, the Dundee Hills appellation. With its transparent cherry-red color, good acidity, bright fruit, and modest 13.8 percent alcohol content, it’s a lip-smacking partner to good food and good times.
I discovered D. H. Porth (which is named for the Porth brothers, Ted and Fred, who helped run the Maresh farm and vineyard back in the late 1950s ) at Staple & Fancy Mercantile in Seattle. Our server suggested it to go with the savory, tomato-based pasta dishes I was craving.
It also played very well with the kitchen’s sensational take on pork belly (photo), a crackly, well-burnished hunk of goodness that managed to taste rich and voluptuous without being fatty or unctuous. The bright, crisp pearl onions and Brussels sprouts sharing the plate were the perfect textural counterpoint.
But, honestly, I’d drink this Pinot with just about anything – pizza, burgers, pasta, beef stew, chicken paprikash, omelettes, pork roast, you-name-it. A quick on-line check for sources showed availability only at stores in the Pacific Northwest. But this delectable bargain is worthy of more sleuthing.
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