Don’t you just hate it when you’re served a dish in a restaurant that you KNOW could be a lot better with a little effort? Last night we dined at Witwe Bolte (The Widow Bolte), a charming restaurant in the equally charming neighborhood of cobblestone lanes and Biedermeier houses called Spittelberg.
The setting was magical – candlelit tables under three graceful linden trees behind the centuries-old inn, a starry sky above, and a quiet buzz of contented conversation from the nearly-full house.
The food was good, too. Especially the paper-thin wisps of cooked beets dressed in a perfectly seasoned vinaigrette, and my husband’s Faschiertes Kalbsbutterschnitzel (yes, that’s one word!) which translates into a handsome sauteed patty of coarsely ground veal…one of the most elegant “hamburgers” you’ll ever see.
But my entree was disappointing, even though I was drooling over the name: Red Onion Risotto with Gorgonzola Cheese.
Served as a picture-perfect “puck” in the center of a white plate dressed up with ribbons of shiny balsamic reduction, it was topped with shavings of a spunky gorgonzola. (Sorry about the photo's lighting...candlelit gardens are the best studio.)
Unfortunately, the key to the picture-perfect puck was undercooked rice that I found overly chewy and unpleasantly chalky.
In some settings I might have sent it back, but, trust me, that’s not an option in a traditional Austrian gasthaus with a cranky head waiter. At home, I would have simply dumped the risotto in a shallow bowl and added a bit of boiling water and stirred ‘til the rice absorbed it.
Determined to make the best of the dining experience, I ordered a bowl of rindsuppe (beef broth) and attempted to “cook” the rice further myself. It was a valiant effort and pretty tasty. But I can’t wait to get home and try doing a red onion and gorgonzola risotto “my way.”
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