For me, there’s no middle ground on crabcakes. They’re either perfect specimens, meaning top-quality crabmeat, a judicious sprinkling of crushed crackers, a splash of mayo or aioli, a few snipped chives, and a quickie bath in very hot oil so the outside is crisped and the inside moist.
Or, they’re bready imposters of the “Not gonna waste the calories” variety.
Happily, I lucked into the ”perfect” variety a few months ago in Santa Barbara.
At Bouchon Santa Barbara, which is not related to Thomas Keller’s Bouchon bistros, the elegant cakes were prepared with lots of first-rate Dungeness crab -- moist, flaky and flavorful -- and little else to steal its thunder. The “garnish” on the plate included fennel puree; a tiny salad of micro-greens, celery and fennel; grapefruit-spritzed aioli; and a silky avocado from Sommer Farms. I managed to get a bit of each component with every heavenly bite.
I also loved the bright, minerally wine the Sommelier suggested as a sidekick: Cold Heaven Viognier from the Santa Ynez Valley.
Bouchon bills itself as Santa Barbara Wine Country Cuisine. Most ingredients are local; preparations are designed to go well with wine. And though the menu suggests a specific wine for every dish, there isn’t a hint of the snobbery and self-importance that’s often associated with wine country establishments. Instead, Bouchon Santa Barbara is a very comfortable, low-key place, with an appealing rustic décor, knowledgeable, gracious servers, and the pleasant buzz of a contented clientele.
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