Forget the curly-edged pasta strips, the red sauce, and the baked-on cheese.
At Österreicher im Mak in Vienna, Austria, chef Bernie Rieder does a luscious riff on lasagna that involves three gossamer sheets of freshly-made pasta, cut into large squares and artfully draped over and between creamy clouds of celery root puree. I found the veggie’s flavor so bright, so sweet, so earthy, that I wondered why the heck isn’t this knobby root given more play in American cooking?
Rieder’s “study in white” was garnished with sautéed button mushrooms and toasted pinenuts. Some folks might say the celery root puree was too much of a good thing. But for me, it was an exciting chance to eat my fill of a vegetable I rarely get to enjoy.
Österreicher im Mak is located in the Österreichisches Museum für angewandte Kunst, which translates as Museum of Applied Art, and involves collections of ceramics, glass, metal, furniture, woodwork, textile, rugs and the Archives of the famed Wiener Werkstätte (Arts & Crafts).
The restaurant’s dining room itself is a work of art with a
dramatic coffered ceiling, banquettes simulating a huge wave, old oak flooring and a massive chandelier comprised of
200 clear wine bottles.
However, during our recent visit in the middle of a
blistering heat-wave, we dined in the enchanting garden where art works are occasionally displayed and a magical lightshow entertains most evenings.
In addition to the inspired lasagna, chef Rieder and his kitchen impressed with a “Rot (red) Risotto” of perfectly cooked Arborio rice, blended with crushed red beets, miniscule cubes of green apple, fresh and creamed horseradish, and sprigs of fresh basil on top. Like a good orchestra, each ingredient played loud and clear yet fused perfectly with the others.
To me, the sign of a really yummy dish is if it inspires me to try it at home. I've been making "beet risotto" almost weekly since I returned from Austria, using pre-cooked beets (that I saute a few minutes with butter, a splash of orange juice and a few drops of balsamic), and cooking it in a pressure cooker -- start to finish in five minutes flat!
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