When L’Epi Dupin opened its doors almost 20 years ago in a tiny 6th arrondissement storefront, it was an instant sensation. Parisians and in-the-know Americans flocked there for chef Francois Pasteau’s creative modern French cuisine, the intimate Bohemian atmosphere and the gracious hospitality which was in vivid contrast to that at large brasseries and tourist-oriented cafes.
My husband and I went several times over the years, often bringing groups of friends for festive, memorable evenings. But over the last decade we moved on to newer and trendier boites. Silly us. Last night we battled wind and icy rain to return to our former love and found the food better than ever.
The day’s menu --- chalked on a large blackboard that gets trundled around from table to table --- included a half dozen of each: entrée (appetizer), plat principal (what Americans call entrée) and dessert. Prix-fixe for the three-course dinner was 38 Euro or about $50.
I knew we were in for a treat the moment the shallow bowl of creamy polenta, enriched with parmesan and cradling an herb-dusted poached egg, was placed in front of me. The aroma was intoxicating; the texture, to die for. And the wands of deep-fried polenta on the side were among the best “French fries” I’ve ever tasted.
Equally impressive were the flavorful (organic) white shrimp from Madagascar, served over a bright, sassy arugula vinaigrette and topped with stewed “batons” of leek and a warm, wispy cheese crisp.
The magic continued with main courses. A filet of lieu, (a cod cousin), cooked to crackly perfection on the outside, glistening opalescence inside, was served atop a mound of sweet, juicy shredded leeks. Four luscious pan-sauteed scallops were paired with crushed potatoes smoothed with butter and seasoned with garlic and herbs.
My husband had some type of stewed oranges and tangerines for dessert. The folks at the table next to us had a poufy profiterole that looked like it could lift off at any moment. But I only had eyes for my deliriously rich “baked chocolate cream”—an ethereal creation of bittersweet chocolate, milk, cream and eggs that is similar to chocolate mousse but without the beaten egg whites and with far more character. Paired with an oval of creamy citrus ice cream, it was divine.
L’Epi Dupin’s wine list, assembled and proudly described by Loic, the sommelier, is an all-French affair that introduced me to several lovely new friends, all with very reasonable pricetags. I had reservations about the Saumur-Champigny red that he was extolling – I’ve never been crazy about Loire Valley whites. But I couldn’t resist his passionate pleas to try it, and found the Amatéüs Bobi 2012 the perfect partner for our dinner: Fresh and elegant, but with a satisfying richness (especially with food) and plenty of the red and black fruit I love.
Because I booked at the last minute --- by email that morning --- the only seats we could get were the two on the side of the tiny service bar. Surrounded by wine bottles and able to chat with the sommelier as he worked, it was a very cool alternative to the weensy tables in the place and made us feel like lucky locals.
L’Epi Dupin is at 11, Rue Dupin, in the Saint Germain Des Pres area, a few doors from the famous Bon Marché department store. It’s closed Saturday and Sunday.
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