Matters of Taste

Chefs as Diplomats -- I'll Drink (and Eat) to That

Forget the tapenade. Thanks to the recently announced Diplomatic Culinary Partnership, some American chefs are now more interested in the olive branch, as in extending that classic sign of peace and compromise to other peoples around the world.

                                     
   

Two weeks ago, the U.S. State Department formalized a culinary relationship with the James Beard Foundation, whose mission is to “educate, inspire, entertain, and foster a deeper understanding of our culinary culture.” (This photo of the event is from the Philadelphia Inquirer.)  I was lucky enough to attend the reception in Washington, D.C. to announce and celebrate this new Diplomatic Culinary Partnership and to introduce the 2012 class of State Chefs.

Held in the State Department’s elegant Benjamin Franklin Room, within sight of the Capitol and Washington Monument, the event was attended by dozens of well-known chefs from around the country, members of the State Department staff, government dignitaries, members of the James Beard Foundation’s board, and food journalists (including this one) from the Association of Food Journalists, who were in D.C. for their annual conference. As befits a gathering of card-carrying foodies, the evening's "menu" was a stellar line-up including the Heirloom Bean and Bacon Tostada pictured here.

                                              
                                     
The Diplomatic Culinary Partnership aims to use America's culinary talent as a means of diplomacy. To achieve this, the Department has tapped prominent U.S. chefs to join the American Chef Corps, a group of 80-plus food-and-wine professionals who have "agreed to serve as resources to the Department of State in its efforts to incorporate culinary engagement into its ongoing public diplomacy efforts." The chefs will be called upon to prepare various state dinners as well as to travel to other countries to spread American food traditions. (Chefs will donate their time and energy, and travel on their own dime.)

U.S. Chief of Protocol Capricia Penavic Marshall summed up the concept in her remarks:

"By showcasing the best of American cuisine and creativity, we can show our guests a bit about ourselves. Likewise, by incorporating elements of our visitor's culture, we can demonstrate respect and a desire to connect and engage."

U.S. Secretary of State Hilary Rodham Clinton also spoke at the gathering, via a video message, saying

“Food isn’t traditionally thought of as a diplomatic tool, but sharing a meal can help people transcend boundaries and build bridges in a way that nothing else can.” 

The illustrious group of chefs includes José Andrés who oversees an empire of Spanish restaurants in the U.S., Todd Gray of D.C.’s Equinox, Chicago’s Rick Bayless, seafood master Rick Moonen, L.A.’s Mary Sue Milliken of “Too Hot Tamales” fame, San Francisco pastry chef Emily Luchetti, and Ming Tsai of Blue Ginger in Wellesley, MA.  More than 50 of the chefs were present at the announcement, and some of them were cooking their signature appetizers for the reception guests who circulated through the formal rooms and the large terrace with its breathtaking view.

In addition to a lavish buffet of American cheeses and charcuterie, there were a dozen food stations and bars, along with a non-stop array of passed hors d’oeuvres.

Mary Sue Milliken’s tiny tostada with heirloom beans, avocado and bacon was a standout, as was the yummy Maryland Blue Crab Crostini by Food Network personality Amanda Freitag. Bryan Voltaggio of Volt in nearby Frederick, MD served a meltingly tender bison shortrib with figs, smoked almonds and charred onion.

                                    

Of the passed hors d’oeuvres it was the precious little piggies playing on a verdant serving platter that stole the show. The old-fashioned pigs-in-a-blanket, along with the newfangled pig-shaped smoked salmon canapes, topped with tobiko, were created by chef/caterer Peter Callahan. Widely credited with the invention of such mini comfort foods as the “slider,” Callahan also sent trays of mini burgers; mini pizzas (each in its own Diplomatic Culinary Partnership pizza box); and mini grilled cheese sandwiches around the room. Further stoking the buzz: mini drinks to accompany each two-bite appetizer. And near the close of the event: mini cotton candy cones.

                                                   
                                  

Drink offerings were equally impressive with a wine bar featuring vintages from lesser known wine regions such as Michigan, Maryland, Virginia, Arizona, New York and Texas, as well as specialty cocktails mixed by some of the area’s best known bartenders.

                                                  

I especially liked the bright, herby cocktail dreamed up by Todd Thrasher of Restaurant Eve in Alexandria, VA. (Photo from Restaurant Eve.) Using sauvignon blanc that he infused with several fresh herbs, Thrasher (who Wash Post critic Tom Sietsema calls “one of the best mixologists anywhere”) shook up a pale, puckery drink, dubbed the "Thymes Like These," that seemed to me the perfect way to toast the future efforts of the American Chef Corps.

The Pleasures of the Perfect Crab Cake

For me, there’s no middle ground on crabcakes. They’re either perfect specimens, meaning top-quality crabmeat, a judicious sprinkling of crushed crackers, a splash of mayo or aioli, a few snipped chives, and a quickie bath in very hot oil so the outside is crisped and the inside moist.

Or, they’re bready imposters of the “Not gonna waste the calories” variety.

Happily, I lucked into the ”perfect” variety a few months ago in Santa Barbara.

                                    

At Bouchon Santa Barbara, which is not related to Thomas Keller’s Bouchon bistros, the elegant cakes were prepared with lots of first-rate Dungeness crab -- moist, flaky and flavorful -- and little else to steal its thunder. The “garnish” on the plate included fennel puree; a tiny salad of micro-greens, celery and fennel; grapefruit-spritzed aioli; and a silky avocado from Sommer Farms. I managed to get a bit of each component with every heavenly bite.

I also loved the bright, minerally wine the Sommelier suggested as a sidekick: Cold Heaven Viognier from the Santa Ynez Valley.

Bouchon bills itself as Santa Barbara Wine Country Cuisine. Most ingredients are local; preparations are designed to go well with wine. And though the menu suggests a specific wine for every dish, there isn’t a hint of the snobbery and self-importance that’s often associated with wine country establishments. Instead, Bouchon Santa Barbara is a very comfortable, low-key place, with an appealing rustic décor, knowledgeable, gracious servers, and the pleasant buzz of a contented clientele.

                                    

Corn Soup: Hot and Cold, American and Austrian

To me, nothing says SUMMER better than an ear of just-picked corn, boiled for a minute or two, then anointed with unsalted butter and a bit of kosher salt. But chef Helmut Österreicher has his own ideas on the subject. At Österreicher im MAK, his restaurant in Vienna’s Museum of Applied Arts, the award-winning chef whips up a deliriously delicious corn cream soup, Maiscreme-Suppe mit Krauter-Popcorn. It’s smoother-than-smooth, impossibly fresh tasting. And, to add a bit of whimsy to a humble veggie soup, Österreicher tops it with lighter-than-air herbed popcorn.

                                      


And, this stellar soup is only part of the good news about Österreicher im MAK. In his effort to merge classical and contemporary versions of Austrian cooking, chef Österreicher woos guests with a quivering white asparagus panna cotta (below) surrounded by “raw” vegetable salad; elegant pastry pockets filled with sun-dried cherry tomatoes and fresh basil; yellow curry risotto topped with grilled shrimp and green beans; and a totally old-fashioned, totally yummy veal “hamburger” with mashed potatoes and grilled onions.

                                      

As befits a restaurant in a museum of applied arts, Österreicher im MAK is an unusually beautiful space, with sleek, elegant furnishings, stylish table settings, and creative lighting, including a signature chandelier that no one who sees it will ever forget. The restaurant also offers one of Vienna’s most captivating gardens, where lunch is served. (Photo below from The New York Times.)

                                      

I’ve been thinking about Herr Österreicher's amazing corn soup ever since I tasted it during a visit in June. Last week I attempted to whip up my own cream of corn soup (a chilled version since it was nearly 80 degrees), using Olathe Sweet Corn. (I’m in Telluride, Colorado at the moment, with the town of Olathe, renowned for its corn, just about an hour away.) Using a recipe from one of my favorite cookbooks – “In the Hands of a Chef” by Jody Adams and Ken Rivard -- I dutifully made corn stock from the stripped cobs, sautéed the kernels with leeks and shallots, and pureed and blended the whole shebang using both Cuisinart and blender. It was a helluva lot of work, but it was delicious and handsome with its crunchy sprinkle of diced cucumber, avocado, red onion and tomato. You’ll find this Chilled Smooth Corn Soup with Tomatoes, Avocado, and Lime in “In the Hands of a Chef.”  Available on Amazon.com for $13.98.

Life's Uncertain. Eat Dessert First.

That’s particularly sage advice if you’re talking about the voluptuous Bread and Butter Pudding at The Hungry Cat in Santa Barbara.

                                          

The Hungry Cat, a popular bistro in downtown Santa Barbara, serves only one dessert, but what a dessert it is. The "Chocolate Bread and Butter Pudding," baked and served in a classic French metal mold, is a sumptuous affair, with crusty cubes of bread intermingled with silken  ganache, all covered with a bumpy brulée crust.  (This photo is by AliceQFoodie, a fellow San Diego food lover and blogger.)

The bittersweet chocolate is at the bottom, so the best way to enjoy the pudding is to dip deep with each spoonful and pull up hot chocolate ribbons along with the souffléed bread. The dessert is big enough for two, and digging into the sexy, little charlotte mold, right down to the gooey chocolate on the bottom, is about as much fun as two people can legally have over dessert in a public place.

That said, I did not eat my dessert first at The Hungry Cat. Instead, I went the traditional route and loved the roasted beet salad with Green Goddess dressing, Dungeness crab, radish and avocado; and the pan-seared Alaskan halibut with creamy grits, asparagus, ramps and green garlic. Yummy, too, were the glossy diver scallops. I ordered them because the preparation included oxtail ragout and Sunchoke puree, two of my favorite foods. The puree was perfectly in sync with the scallops’ flavor and texture; the ragout, on the other hand, was too heavy-handed for the delicate shellfish.

                                       

The Hungry Cat, located at 1134 Chapala Street, is first and foremost a seafood restaurant, with elaborate shellfish platters and a variety of raw and marinated treats. Phone: 805-884-4701. It’s a casual place with an enthusiastic, animated clientele, and friendly, professional service. Dishes range from $10 to $30.  The by-the-glass wine list is particularly interesting.

 

 

 

 

A New Way to Scramble an Egg

I’m in Vienna, Austria this week, rejoicing in the music, food, art, and outdoorsy adventures that this elegant, old-world city has to offer.

                                          

Over the weekend, I once again explored the famous Karmelitermarkt, (Carmelites’ market) the Saturday-only outdoor market that’s considered the best in a town full of excellent markets.

My plan was to buy eierschwammerl (also known as chanterelles) and make mushroom goulash for dinner.  These golden, trumpet-shaped funghi show up in the market only for a couple weeks in June. As soon as I arrived at the square, I sought out the purveyors who had small baskets of the precious mushrooms, picked the ones that looked best, and bought a half pound.

The rest of the shopping could wait until after breakfast.

For that, we headed to Marktachterl, a popular café on the perimeter of the square .  (A few other casual restaurants, a flower shop, several butchers, and a couple of pastry shops are also permanent merchants on the square.)

I was expecting a simple plate of scrambled eggs when I ordered Eierspeis. But what I got was an education and inspiration for future breakfasts.

                                   

Since Eierspeis translates literally as “egg-dish,” I asked the waiter how the eggs were prepared. He answered:  “They’re moved around in a pan.”

OK.

Instead of beating the eggs together in a bowl, the cook apparently broke the eggs directly into a hot pan with sizzling butter, let them sit a few seconds, and then scrambled them until they were loosely set. The result was light and fluffy with luscious chunks of white and yellow --- a far more interesting texture than the norm. A flurry of fresh chives, and a tiny plop of sour cream with cherry tomatoes completed the picture.

It seems that Viennese chefs love to toss and tousle stuff around in a frying pan. One of the country’s best known desserts is Kaiserchmarrn (which translates as Emperor’s Mishmash), a sweet, eggy pancake that’s chopped up as it cooks in the pan, creating a handsome heap of shredded, caramelized, crispy-edged pancake topped with bits of fruit  or nuts, all buried in a blizzard of powdered sugar.

One of the best versions I’ve ever had was at the tiny lodge of Heilige Kreuz high in the Dolomite mountains of Northern Italy.  I wrote about that sugary masterpiece last summer when I was trekking, hut-to-hut, with friends.

More about the yummy mushroom goulash I made for dinner later.

Flour + Water = Pasta and Pizza To Die For

It’s elementary, my dear.  Flour plus water makes pasta and pizza dough.  But flour plus water in the hands of rising-star chef Thomas McNaughton makes art: stunning pasta packages in fanciful shapes – agnolotti, triangoli, caramelle, garganelli, bucatini, strozzapreti (which, by the way, means strangled priest) -- all teamed with imaginative, robustly flavored sauces.

The concept at Flour + Water, one of San Francisco’s most buzzworthy restaurants, is so simple. There are just four appetizers, four pizzas, seven pasta creations, and two “secondi” (main courses) on the little brown paper menus printed in old-fashioned typewriter font.

The place is simple, too. A long, narrow storefront on the corner of 20^th and Harrison in a residential section of the Mission.  No frills, but an attractive bar area, exposed beams, contemporary artwork, and a partially open kitchen that allows a peek at the wood-burning pizza oven which, I’m told, cooks a pizza in two minutes at something like 800 degrees.

But there is nothing at all simple about McNaughton’s talent, style or passion for tweaking great food traditions. (He was a finalist in the Rising Star category of the recent James Beard Awards .)

I was captivated from the very first bite of tuna conserva with artichokes and impossibly airy battered and fried cardoons. Crispy pork trotter with shaved asparagus, pine nuts and pickled green garlic was equally impressive.                                          

But then came the tour de force, a parade of six pasta dishes that awed, fascinated, mesmerized, and dazzled. There was maltagliati with earthy porcini mushrooms, green garlic and nettles. Elegant little raviolini filled with braised lamb and strewn with wispy pea shoots and fresh mint.  Fat, chewy bucatini with peas, tesa (a type of pancetta) and an egg. Twisty strozzapreti tinted green with spinach and tossed with whey-braised pork and ramps, the wild leeks that only hang around for a few weeks each spring. Precious caramelle filled with ricotta cheese and asparagus and bathed in brown butter and chile flakes. Each dish was my favorite…until the next amazing creation came. (Photo by Brian Smeets, from GrubStreet.com.)

                                    

But, clearly, we couldn’t call it quits until we had tried one of the handsome Neapolitan-style pizzas that went whizzing by us all night long.  The pork sausage pie with tomato, capers, chile flakes and caciocavallo cheese was sensational – thin, light, airy, with a charred rim and crackly crust.

Just when I thought the meal couldn’t possibly be improved upon, along came the extraordinary chocolate budino – an Italian pudding with a shiny, ganache-like texture – that was topped with espresso caramel cream and a sprinkling of coarse salt. (Photo, below, from SingleGuyChef.com.)

Since we were clearly on a roll – some 12 different dishes and not a dud among them – we also ordered the intensely moist olive oil almond cake capped with lavender-scented zabaione and crushed brittle. Divine.

                                             

Judging from the din, Flour + Water was full of happy, enthusiastic fans the night I was there. Management takes reservations for only about half the tables, leaving the rest for walk-ins. There’s always a gaggle of folks in the bar waiting and sometimes a line out the door. No parties larger than six are accepted because there is simply no place to squeeze a bigger table.

WOW WINES --- Continued

Here's one more for my running tally of wines that:

"…make my eyes open wide and my mouth break into a big smile. It’s usually a fruit-forward wine, a fragrant wine, a wine that goes well with food. It’s also usually a good value, often under $15, rarely over $30."

For a wine to stand out in the large, festive family dinner party I attended over the weekend in Nashville, TN it had to be damn good. Uncomplicated. Delicious.  Food-friendly. In-your-face fruity.

And that’s exactly what I found in the 2008 Tenuta Curezza Salento Rosso PRINE.

This Primitivo/NegroAmaro 50-50 blend (hence, PRINE) is from Puglia in Italy’s heel. Primitivo is the Italian Zinfandel; NegroAmara (“bitter black” ) is a local grape usually used for blending.

Because this wine spends no time in oak barrels, it’s all about the fruit – lush, aromatic, plummy, in-your-face fruit.  It was a fitting partner to our dinner at MafiaoZa's, a parade of elegant, thin-crust pizzas with creative toppings, including the yummy DeMartino with imported salami, sun-dried tomatoes, goat cheese, homemade mozzarella, arugula and basil chiffonade.

The Curezza PRINE is an inexpensive wine, we’re talking about 12 bucks a bottle. Happy to be gulped, not sipped. And delicious with pasta dishes and pizza, burgers, ribs and other backyard grill fare. Check it out.

MafiaoZa's, Nashville's most beloved pizzeria, is located at 2400 12th Avenue South. 

 

Little Things Mean a Lot -- Farrotto at Boulud Sud

Sometimes it’s the simplest dish on the most grandiose menu that makes me the happiest. That was the case recently at Boulud Sud, superchef Daniel Boulud’s celebration of Mediterranean food on New York’s Upper West Side.

The menu is cleverly divided into “From the Sea,” “From the Farm,” and “From the Garden,” and is packed with sophisticated  creations such as Zaatar Baked Cod; Spring Ricotta Cappelletti with Nettles and Fiddlehead Ferns; and Spiced Lamb with Hand-Rolled Couscous and Algerian Eggplant.

But it was a simple “Side Dish,” and two nibbles from the “To Share” section of the menu that stole my heart.

I loved the pyramid of perfectly crisped artichoke hearts, Roman style, that was served with a aioli brightened by nipatella (the Italian herb has mint and oregano notes).

I was mad about the crispy, wispy explosion of tastes and textures that Executive Chef Aaron Chambers calls Spiced Duck Leg Kataifi and serves with a piquant date chutney. (Kataifi is a classic Greek dessert of shredded phyllo dough, honey and walnuts, but enterprising chefs today wrap it around everything from shrimp to baby eggplants.)   

Both dishes came from the “To Share” section of the menu and cost less than $15 for four of us to enjoy.

But I fell hardest for Chambers’ Organic Farrotto swirled with a pesto of fresh spring ramps, mascarpone cheese and Parmigiano Reggiano.

Farro, or emmer wheat in English, is an ancient grain that’s long been popular in Italy and is now gaining fans in the U.S. It’s used mostly in soups and risotto-style preparations, where it has to be cooked carefully or it will turn mushy.

Chambers’ version had a sensational texture – each firm yet tender grain stood out in the creamy sauce that was punched up with the pungent garlic-onion flavor that makes ramps so treasured during their brief Springtime appearance each year.

Lucky for the folks at my dinner party on Friday night, Chef Chambers was willing to share the recipe.

                                  

ORGANIC FARROTTO WITH RAMP PESTO

6-8 servings

3          cloves garlic

1          bunch (1/2 lb) fresh ramps, rinsed

1/2      cup basil leaves, packed

6          cups chicken or vegetable broth

2          tablesppons unsalted butter          

1/2      cup dry white wine

2          cups farro

1          cup mascarpone cheese

1/2      cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano

 Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Separate the leaves from the stems of the ramps; chop the stems. Boil the garlic 3 minutes, and then add ramp and basil leaves. Boil 2 minutes, then strain and chill in the ice water. Squeeze dry and transfer to a blender. Blend with enough water to make a thick, smooth puree, and set aside.

In a medium saucepot, bring the broth to a low simmer.                                                       

Melt butter in a large saucepot over medium-low heat. Add ramp stems and sweat for 2 minutes, or until translucent. Add the farro and stir for 4 minutes (do not color). Add the wine, stir, and cook until the liquid evaporates. Slowly stir in enough broth to reach the level of the farro and simmer. Stir continuously adding more broth, 1/2 cup at a time, as it is being absorbed by the farro. Season to taste with salt and pepper after each addition of liquid. Cook 16-18 minutes, or until farro is tender and the mixture is moist but not runny. When the farro is done, stir in mascarpone, parmesan and the reserved ramp puree. Adjust seasoning if needed. Serve warm.

La Marmotte: Telluride's Treasure

In my book, there are two things that make a great restaurant experience even greater.

One is when the chef’s cooking inspires me to try something new at home.

And two is when there are leftovers that turn into a scrumptious Act Two the following night.

At La Marmotte in Telluride, Colorado, chef Mark Reggiannini scored on both counts during my visit there in late March.

I fell in love with his simple but sensational stuffed chicken breast to which Gruyere cheese, arugula and Nicoise olives lent a bright Provencal note. The chicken was beautifully charred outside, white and juicy within, and sauced with shiny natural juices.

The accompanying mashed potatoes were smooth and creamy; the clever “onions in the shape of pasta” contributed another pleasing texture and even more buttery richness.

I’ve never been a fan of stuffing chicken breasts at home – the stuff always spills out into a sloppy mess when I do it.  But Reggiannini made it look easy. And I figure if I can achieve flavor like that, I’m willing to give it another shot.

On the second score, the leftovers: I brought a hefty chunk of the very generous dinner portion home with me. The next night I broke it apart gently and reheated it (chicken, stuffing and onions) in a saucepan with chicken broth. Just before serving, I added a handful of arugula, a bit of grated Gruyere, and tossed it all with cooked penne. Fabulous.

La Marmotte’s menu is an ambitious roster of hearty dishes, well suited to the robust appetites that get  worked up while skiing down double-diamond runs in the winter and hiking up awe-inspiring peaks in the summer. Reggiannini is well known for his braised beef short ribs with horseradish mashed potatoes and pesto; his Colorado lamb “duo” (braised shank and grilled sirloin, with mushroom risotto and rosemary-date jus);  and a slow-baked salmon with edamame couscous and lemon-caper remoulade.  I’m also a big fan of his roasted red beet salad with goat cheese wontons.

La Marmotte, which has been part of the Telluride landscape for more than 20 years (Reggiannini joined about 10 years ago), oozes rustic charm. Set in the 125-year-old Ice House, it has a dark and cozy bar, and an inviting dining room with an elevated, open kitchen smack in the middle. In season, it’s always packed with an animated, appreciative crowd.

The restaurant is located in the heart of the traffic-light-free town of Telluride. Reservations are available on Open Table. The three-course prix fixe menu -- which includes more than a dozen each appetizer and entree selections -- costs $49 per person.

 

One Affogato, Please; Hold the Theatrics

I guess it stands to reason that if someone is going to add flash and dazzle to the very simple, sublime creation called Caffe Affogato (or Gelato Affogato al Caffe), it’s probably going to happen in Las Vegas.

Italians usually play this luscious creation straight: a scoop of vanilla gelato and a shot of espresso straight from the machine. (This tantalizing pic is from EarleRecipes.com.)

But at Fleur, the Vegas offshoot of chef Hubert Keller’s San Francisco prix-fixe paradise, Fleur de Lys, the heavy cream dessert base is spiked with Bailey’s liqueur, for starters.  Then, it’s turned into ice cream in a dramatic, LN2-fueled, table-side show. (That’s liquid nitrogen to those of us who barely squeaked through high school chemistry, and it is capable of turning cream into ice cream in a Las Vegas minute.)

Our server, a young woman who didn’t look real comfortable with the task, poured the Bailey’s cream mixture into a metal bowl, and added the LN2, creating a theatrical vapor cloud. She then worked furiously with a whisk to add some volume to the mixture as it solidified. After piling the resultant "chunks" of ice cream into a dessert dish, she poured on the espresso which was, by then, no longer hot.

Like most things in Vegas, this affogato was more about style than substance. Fun to watch the production, and tasty enough, too (how bad can ice cream swimming in espresso be?) But the presto-change gelato was significantly icier and less creamy than the real thing. And the pricetag – 15 bucks – was totally Vegas.

Fleur, which is in the Mandalay Bay Hotel, has an appealing menu of small and large plates, and plenty of “fun” food, such as onion soup “shooters,” black angus sliders, and Parmesan Paprika Popcorn. I liked the Gallic version of Caesar salad with brioche croutons, gruyere cheese and truffles; and the tarte flambee, Alsace’s answer to the pizza, with onion, bacon, truffle and crème fraiche.