In Praise of Blondie Sundaes...and Belford Bistro

What donuts are to Homer Simpson, marshmallow is to me. I grew up in Boston on jars of Durkee-Mower’s Marshmallow Fluff, slathering it on peanut butter sandwiches, swirling it in homemade fudge, glopping it into hot chocolate, and, when I was bored or down-in-the-dumps, spooning it straight from the chunky glass jar.

 

All this may account partially for my falling in love with Belford Bistro last weekend.  This charming neighborhood café in Belford, New Jersey serves up a Blondie Sundae --topped with a craggy mount of homemade, bruleed marshmallow – that is awesome.  Underneath the voluminous cap hovers homemade peanut butter ice cream studded with chunks of Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups and a dense, brown-sugar brownie. It’s quintessential Americana, comfort food with class.

But I said partially. There are plenty of other reasons why I was smitten by this low-key, out-of-the-way eatery.

Opened about two years ago by husband-wife chef team Kurt Bomberger  and Crista Trovato, Belford Bistro is tucked away in a non-descript strip mall in Belford (population: less than 1,500) in Middletown Township, Monmouth County, New Jersey. Though the façade may, charitably, be called non-descript, the interior is warm and welcoming, with well-spaced tables, a partially-open kitchen and a quiet sense of style.

That’s reason #1.

Then there’s the fact that it’s BYOB, with no corkage charge. Bomberger explained to me why it’s easier or wiser or more profitable or whatever for them to skip the liquor license, but honestly I was too busy eating to absorb his whole story. All you really need to know is that you can bring exactly the wine you’re craving that night, and pay Costco prices instead of those on a (traditionally) inflated wine list.

Reasons 3 thru 32 are on the menu.

We were a party of eight and each dish we ordered was cleverly conceived and skillfully executed. Bomberger and Trovato (who, by the way, met while they were both cooking at Windows on the World) are creative cooks who bring out the best in their fine ingredients without falling into the overkill mode of so many of today’s chefs.  (The two are also veterans of New York City’s Aquavit, Gramercy Tavern and Ocean Grill.)

The Bistro offers New American cuisine, both familiar fare (fresh pappardelle with Bolognese sauce) and trendy takes (bacon-wrapped scallops on fresh horseradish fingerling potato salad). There’s a simple ground sirloin burger on a brioche roll and a more involved “signature dish” of seared day boat scallops nestled on truffle butter-blessed risotto with melted leeks and crisp asparagus spears (pictured here).

Boneless short ribs are seared and slowly coaxed to complete tenderness in Cabernet wine and veal stock, then served atop a mix of homemade gnocchi, roasted butternut squash, butter and herbs. A bit of spinach and toasted pine nuts completes the pretty picture.

Hefty, well-seasoned crab cakes are served with lemon scallion aioli and a salad of mache and fresh herbs. Salads are varied – goat cheese, Boston Bibb, "Duck Bistro "with arugula, peanut brittle and miso vinaigrette – and delicious.

Belford Bistro offers excellent value.  Substantial first courses – including seared tuna sashimi and five-cheese agnolotti – average $12; well-garnished entrees run from $12 to about $26/$27. Portions are large enough for leftovers; many appetizers are suitable as entrée.

For those of you whose teeth are still aching from my description of the Blondie Sundae, the Bistro does offer some more, er, restrained desserts including an elegant espresso chocolate mousse, warm apple spice cake with caramel gelato and Tahitian vanilla crème brulee.

It’s the possibility of finding a place like Belford Bistro – the treasured diamond in the rough -- that keeps professional restaurant critics sane, and game for another meal day after day after day.

Belford Bistro is located at  870 Main Street; (732) 495-8151.