Butternut squash is the darling of today’s chefs who tuck it into ravioli, fold it into risotto, mash and top it with frizzled leeks, puree it with ginger for a sublime soup, and much, much more.
I’m a huge fan of the homely, hard-to-peel wonder. Last fall, while traveling in Austria, I managed to eat butternut squash soup in a different restaurant every day for 21 days. My post about the adventure includes photos that’ll make your mouth water.
But recently, I found a new object of my affection in Napa Valley. That would be the combination of butternut and burrata at Bottega, chef/restaurateur Michael Chiarello’s newest restaurant in
the Yountville.
(For those who haven't made the acquaintance of this insanely rich Italian cheese, it's a type of fresh mozzarella that's wrapped around heavy cream. Tear it apart or poke in a fork and you're awash in pure, sweet, fresh cream goodness.)
Bottega's Antipasti menu said simply Burrata. But, the descriptive words underneath made me drool.
“Creamy mozzarella burrata with roasted butternut squash, caramelized mushrooms and shallots, brown butter vinaigrette, balsamic caviar.”
It was a “Be still, my heart” moment.
And the dish delivered, big time. Large fleshy, butter-blessed cubes of orange squash mingled with chewy bits of mushroom (the server said porcini) and soft, golden shallot shards. A couple of miraculously moist blobs of burrata clung to the heap, and the clever vinaigrette (who’s ever heard of a butter vinaigrette?) laced the veggies and swirled around the plate.
“Thanksgiving,” I whispered as I ate the last morsel of a portion that could have easily served four. “This is pure Thanksgiving.”
But I couldn’t wait that long to try it at home. My version (pictured here) wasn’t as lovely as Chiarello’s...my cubes of squash were not as firm and distinct. And I chose to sauté a cup of chopped sweet onion with the mushrooms instead of the shallots. But the final result was as delicious and comforting as his.
The butternut squash triumph wasn’t the only thing to
celebrate at Bottega. A quivering pecorino cheese pudding, served with a crispy, crumb-cloaked
soft-boiled egg and oven-roasted rapini, was fabulous. As was a salad of
roasted golden and chiogga beets dressed with pistachio vinaigrette and Point
Reyes blue cheese. And a pasta with Bolognese sauce that sounded commonplace was remarkable for the
depth of flavor of its veal, pork and porcini sauce.
The atmosphere at Bottega, too, is a draw. Located in Yountville's historic Marketplace 1870 , the restaurant features roaring fireplaces, a stylish lounge with good-looking people two-deep at the bar, a sprawling outdoor terrace and several pretty dining rooms with views of the bustling open kitchen.
For folks who still haven't settled on a menu for today's feast (that would be those risk-takers who were at Vons and Whole Foods last night), here's the recipe for the butternut and burrata special. Plain roasted turkey is an ideal complement for the richness of the dish.
Everyone else can consider it for the December holidays.
Roasted Butternut Squash and Mushrooms with Burrata
Serves 6
3 ½ cups mushrooms, any variety, sliced or cut into small chunks
5 cups 1-inch cubes of peeled butternut squash, about 2 ½ pounds
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided use (more, to taste)
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
12 ounces burrata
Brown Butter Vinaigrette
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon minced sage
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Pinch of salt, kosher or gray salt
Preheat oven to 400 degrees,
Heat a large ovenproof skillet over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons olive oil. When the butter has melted, add the squash cubes to the pan and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the squash is caramelized, about 5 minutes. Slide the pan into the oven and roast until the squash looks brown on the edges, about 20 minutes.
While the squash roasts, make the brown butter vinaigrette. Melt the 6 tablespoons butter in a saute pan. Brown the sage for one minute, then pour in the vinegar and let it reduce by half. Don’t stir or touch it. Just keep it on a simmer, gently reducing until thickened. Add the salt at the end.
To sauté the mushrooms, add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons olive oil to a saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms, cooking until they begin to release their water, about 8 minutes. Add the shallots to the pan and sauté until brown, tossing so they cook evenly. Season with salt and pepper and add another tablespoon of butter if they look dry. Gently fold mushroom mixture into the squash cubes.
To serve, divide the squash-mushroom mix evenly among 6 plates. With your hands, tear the burrata into medium-small pieces, scattering it over the vegetables. Drizzle with the vinaigrette.
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